Sarbatche

Oh... Does the threaded rod cutter just cut all-thread to length? I was thinking that it cut threads into blank rods. Here I am making things too complicated.

My girlfriend's dog of 13 years passed away not too long ago. When she got the bad news from the vet, she had asked that I build her a grave marker. Well, I had been looking for a small project that used all wood joinery so two birds with one stone and all that. The wood used was bald cypress from a local sawmill. Not sure why my images always get rotated when I post them... :shrug: Layout: Roughly cut pieces: Partial assembly: Instead of draw boring with wooden pegs, Japanese joinery sometimes uses these tapered keys that lock in the drawbars. They're called shachi-sen and are made of a harder wood than the parent material. These were from scraps of Osage Orange. And the finishing touches; my first try at carving wasn't terrible but really nothing to brag about.

About this threaded rod cutter... Was all-thread ever too expensive? Maybe I'm just not seeing the professional application. I would think that cutting tapered pipe thread would be more useful.

So happy to see the Tough Sound being publicly announced. I have been stretching out the life expectancy of my pawn shop 18V radio while waiting for this!

When and how did you get this deal? My Lowes hasn't had any sales on 40V equipment, nor have there been any online.

+1 on the Tough System. +2 on the Tough System with Kaizen foam, which is not pluck to fit foam. Check out the 'Whats in your Tough Box' thread http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/3307-whats-in-your-tough-box/page-3#entry58682.

I recommend reading 'One Good Turn'. It's a book chronicling the development of the screw and screw driver. The square drive, or Robertson screw, is discussed near the end and is really quite an exceptional development.

It's definitely going into a Tough System DS150 with Kaizen foam. All of my tools do. I'm talking about the little attachment box that comes with the kit.

I finally bought myself a DCS355 oscillating multi tool and I love the deep blade box that comes with it. I'll probably even buy a second one. However... It's clearly not just a universal box due to all of the fins on the inside. Can anyone provide a photo of how they fit everything in there properly? Or an official DeWalt photo of where the attachments and blades are supposed to go? This (case layout depictions) may be one of the largest enduring frustrations that I have with DeWalt. I struggled for a long time with my router and its case before finally putting it in a Tough System.

I'm inclined to go the professional line route, but I'm already invested in the 20V line. Maybe a hint from one of the reps about the future of 40V could persuade me...? In all seriousness, has anyone directly compared the 20V trimmer/blower to their 40V counterpart?

x2 on a US lineup. But with the Tough System instead of T-Staks.

That's a good price point on the tape. I wonder how well it works and for how long. Normally I'm all about MDF inserts made with a mortising router bit and the original plate as a template.

... With Global materials... So really it was just assembled here. Lol. Those tricksy hobbits.

I've been collecting more DS150's... I'll shamelessly share photos of my Stanley Sweetheart chisels in one, but more notable is the carving set in the top section. I carved out the plastic ribbing in the right side and fit Kaizen foam into both sections. It really is a shame that there aren't any of those drill bit box dovetails along the sides... Are you listening DeWalt reps?!? Ah. The last photo is just a little tool porn for y'all. A set of 5 hand forged John Neeman chisels was a rather nice Christmas present to myself last year. These are actually the reason that I started investing in the Tough System. I couldn't justify spending $1K+ on steel tools without a weather-proof and indestructible case to hold them.

Just a little Tough System hack for y'all. While the T-Staks have a label holder on the front, the Tough System boxes just have an indentation in the center. In keeping with the weatherproof nature of the boxes, I wanted a similarly durable label. I've been restacking and opening every box when I need a different tool... Paint pens are a fool proof solution (and can be had in yellow), but my local hardware store turned me onto white Gorilla Tape. I cut each label down to size using baking wax paper as a non-stick backing. A permanent marker will write on the tape well, and can be erased as needed with a paper towel soaked in WD-40.

No problems yet! :knocking on wood:

Grumpy, those rails are pretty slick and easily mounted. I just happened to have 1/4" 7000 series aluminum bar stock laying around, which is plenty strong enough for this little job site planer. Do you have problems with the rollers not maintaining their adjusted height? Mind you, I've been planing timbers more than boards lately... But I've been toying with the idea of getting 1" steel square tube and making rollers with vertical supports that rest on the ground. Like a monopod and possibly telescoping.

Don't go putting those new taps into foam. You won't ruin them but you will be picking out foam bits from the sharp edges constantly. I know that y'all have a collection of tools, including routers. You could make a wooden case pretty easily. The machine shop that I used to work in used individual tool cases that were then nestled into foam. I prefer Kaizen foam and the DeWalt Tough System DS150 to keep moisture away from those bare steel tools.

I sharpen my chisels using water stones. 1200 and 6000 grit. There's plenty of information out there on the web and YouTube regarding sharpening techniques. Plate glass, adhesive spray and sand paper worked for me for several years. Let me suggest a set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels. There's a smaller and larger set, as well as individual pieces. They're socket chisels, which allow the handle to be easily knocked loose to lighten the tool for sharpening. I struggled with low quality Ace Hardware and Stanley FatMax tang chisels for a long time. The tang style handle was heavy and awkward to sharpen for me.

Done. I had the old 12V charging radio; I could use an upgrade that incorporates the tough system.

The smaller one is best for individual power tools. Like a drill that came with the fabric carrying bag. The larger ones are great for dumping tools into if your not as OCD about every tool having its own place as I am.

I've been having fun with Kaizen foam. So many DeWalt tools never came with a hard shell case or were purchased second hand and are finally getting a home of their own. These body hammers and anvils had a molded plastic case, but it wasn't weather sealed and developed rust just sitting in storage... I have large and small shrinking discs that I'm thinking of attaching to the underside of the lid, as well.

How about something like the inserts that woodworkers have been making for their Festool Systainers? I think that DeWalt has created a far superior and better priced product that should be exploited as effectively as Systainers are. These are not mine, BTW. Just images provided by Google.

I use this planer regularly on both soft and hardwoods. My first set of knives went very fast and I had to choose between spending $60 every few weeks, spending $240 for carbide edged knives or $400 on a Byrd Shelix cutter head as a more permanent fix. My advice would vary depending on frequency of use. Why bother with carbide brazed at that price? One set and you're already halfway to a helical carbide head. You'll get the same quality of finish between carbides. Steel knives are great for infrequent use and give a better finish. DeWalt seems to use a rather soft steel and, as a former machinist, I'm curious as to what tool steel and hardening process they use. I considered making a set of my own. The Byrd Shelix was a great investment and each carbide insert can be indexed four times to use every cutting edge. The only issue that I have is that I've now invested $800 into a plastic tool, but then I love using old cast iron machines.

I've thrown out my back trying to pick up DeWalt's 13" planer (DW735) before, so I jumped on the rolling miter/planer stand because of its gas strut assisted lifting feature. The mobility and utility of this stand is unbelievable and the cost is priced comparably to the heavy duty miter stand. I intend to buy a second rolling stand to replace my heavy duty stand for my sliding compound miter. Unfortunately, the DW735 is too wide for the mounting rails on the DWX726, which I feel justifies an attachment from DeWalt as it's marketed as a universal stand for planers and compound miters. I had some scrap 1/4"x1" aluminum bar that worked well to adapt the machine mount. Well enough, at least, to share with y'all. Cheers!