BMack37
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Posts posted by BMack37
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Neat idea but you want a battery like we have now. Look at how some guys treat their power tools, an easy open battery pack will be dropped from a roof onto concrete open and spill the cells everywhere and everyone on the jobsite will call them junk.
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5 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:
I’d like to get my hands on one been in “clearance” at my Lowe’s for 89 for 6 months lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk$69 at my three closest stores. The $18 one posted on GJ is 40 mins from me, not worth the drive...I don't need one that bad.
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The Porter Cable Restorer is on deep discounts at some Lowe's, it seems you'll have to go to see the price. I've seen as low as $18, retail is $100!
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My Wen's key has the spring but it's not stiff, it's easy to use. I'd try lubing it, if that doesn't loosen it then email Wen...they have great customer service, I guarantee they'll send you a new one.
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8 hours ago, Stercorarius said:
Yeah it also definitely has to do with preference too. I know a lot of truckers who air their seats down to the floor so they can see bare minimum and feel like a badass. I always air my seat up as high as my feet will still reach because I prefer better visibility. The chevy felt like it was designed for guys who put their seat to the floor.
Yeah, that's dumb. I like my eyeline being at about the 3/4 line on the windshield, it gives you a better view of the road AND your own vehicle which is important when parking. I rarely (like once or twice a year) have to stop and reposition when pulling into a spot, been that way since I started driving...first with a full sized pickup and now with a SUV. I HATE not just pulling into a spot, I'm the most impatient parker, I just want to park and get on with my day.
A lot of new cars sit you lower, like you described, and you can't see where the hood ends to estimate where your bumper is, all you see is the curvature of the hood.
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4 minutes ago, Stercorarius said:
Yeah I'm pretty similar sized to you around 6'2" somewhere around 220 lbs. It's hard to describe. Backseats on a crewcab high country were small enough with the seat forward that my boots couldn't pit perpendicular to the seat. In the driver's seat it's like they pushed everything towards you to make you feel bigger but it's just uncomfortable. Somehow hard to see because the windshield almost seemed small. Much preferred the powerstroke. Actually really like the new Ford XLT cabs. Not a fan of the higher end lariat cabs though. It might just be a case of me feeling out of place in high end cabs though.
I always have trouble in back seats because I wear size 13 shoes.
Interesting, definitely doesn't sound comfortable. I hate most cars coming out now, visibility is terrible because the A pillars are always huge.
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On 1/17/2018 at 1:04 PM, Stercorarius said:
The one engine/tranny option is a step in the right direction for the ranger. I would have preferred them to be a little more bare bones and low key get trucks. Instead they went full Tacoma on them which I really don't like. Guys need to really get their act together and put at least a small steel area on the top of aluminum bodies so you can still magnet mount accessories. There's nothing like having to open both doors and run a ratchet straps around your roof to keep a beacon on. About an XLT with vinyl floors is my trim level. Trucks are strangely jumping back and forth between being super ugly and solid looking between each year. The new powerstrokes are really solid. Takes a while for them to grow on you but they work well. Pulled pretty much anything under the sun when I had a 2017 at my old job. I don't fit in the new Chevys. The interiors were designed either for smaller folks or people a lot less claustrophobic than me. New Dodges are new Dodges. Only look good with a welding bed or pulling livestock.
What's your height/weight? Hard to imagine they're not built for guys at least 6'3" and 240. I'm 6'1" 230, wide shoulders and long legs, I've never felt cramped in a modern truck, even back to the 90s.
For looks, the 90s GM pickups are probably my favorite (for practical trucks), followed by the 1st gen Ford Raptor. 50s trucks from pretty much everyone are the best looking trucks but they're not practical or comfortable.
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That's insane
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Chrome and impact U-joints are absolutely necessary if you're going to wrench on a semi-regular basis. I don't find wobbles to be all that helpful.
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This was finished a couple nights ago.
Never gets old turning this into something:
Cut into strips:
Glued up and planed:
Cut to size, routed(including a cup in the bottom), sanded and oiled:
Done and ready to use:
What is it?
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Today while waiting on Fedex I made a little sandpaper shelf:
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8 hours ago, JMG said:
Never use an impact to install lug bolts or nuts on your car, unless specifically designed for the correct torque and application. I use one to remove them most times, but I always spin them back on without using an impact and them use a torque wrench to set them to spec. I have a T handle for half inch sockets that works well for this. Nothing worse than galling the threads on a stud or stretching a bolt by over tightening it. They tend to break at the worst possible moments when damaged like this.
With my compact m18 Fuel, thread then hit with the impact one the fastest speed to two impacts, gets me to about 70 ft/lbs, then I use a torque wrench. It's about a half turn away.
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What's with Ford and Chevy and those tiny headlights? The Ranger would look really good with a couple inches taller headlight...and fixing the height of the doors/bed under the window line.
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Sadly, not a lot. I think you'd be lucky to get $50 out of it. I'm pretty sure both of those pieces are made in the USA(the router might be the early overseas model for PC, it's not very old) too. Small router tables are about $120 new. Used USA routers are common, you can probably find one of those routers for $25/35 at a pawn shop or cheaper at a yard sale. Less people care about the made in USA thing when you have stuff now that is made overseas with better features and more user friendly.
I personally wouldn't let it go for that cheap but if you're not using it, of course, it's not doing you any good sitting there. If you can afford to sit on it for some time, list it for $100 and gauge your offers. Your area may be different than mine, I live in a large city so there are a lot of tools available. I think I paid $35 for my router table and one router, both USA made but my table is plastic instead of metal. I've paid $8 and $15 for two other made in USA routers.
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Lowe's sucks.
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No on bolt extractors, no on stripped heads. Rusted, if you can get the socket on(even if it takes a hammer to get it on). No on masonry.
With bolt extractors, what you want is slow, steady pressure...Not fast with rotational impacts. You do NOT want to break an extractor, that is a LOT worse that dealing with the stripped bolt.
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I like the idea of creating some jobs in the US by "Assembling in the US" but I find that the biggest problem with tools is the materials used in the tool and if it's still globally sourced, it really isn't making a difference. That's not to say it's bad but I wouldn't buy an "Assembled in the USA" tool expecting any better quality than something made offshore from a comparable brand.
I personally try my best to always view things from an outside perspective, it tends to keeps my opinions in check. I try to be open minded also, I mean really...if you close yourself off to some brands, you're going to be missing out on good tools.
Hell, I just bought an iPhone X. I HATE Apple for their money grubbing business practices but I like certain things about the OS, their app store is better and there are more third party accessories.
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8 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:
If you are buying something strictly because it is “Made in America”, you are shortchanging yourself.
Made in the USA with global materials is more marketing wank. Unless you think that where something is assembled somehow makes it more durable or reliable. Buying a better tool doesn’t mean you are less American, it means you are smart.
We live in a global economy now.
Tools make me money. Why on earth would I settle for mediocre, just for the sake of patriotism? It’s the same idiots who shipped the jobs overseas who want us to buy American now. They still built everything overseas, but somehow, assembly means American made.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkI've been really disappointed in a lot of USA tools. It seems that a lot of the USA tool makers are soo darn confident that they are the best because they make tools in the USA that they fail to innovate and sometimes let the quality slip.
Look at Eklind hex keys, made in the USA, rough edges, not chamfered..Chinese made Tekton, larger set for cheaper AND finished properly and chamfered. USA screwdrivers other than Tekton (that are less than $20 a piece), all acetate junk.
Look at Wera, Knipex, Wiha, Witte all of them have innovative designs to improve tools. USA has Channellock, making the same thing for decades. Klein is doing some things but it's nothing special, most copying Knipex multi-functional pliers.
The Japanese hand tools are even better, they have absolutely genius ideas to improve tools, they're not scared to take chances...USA made chances are being taken by guys in their garage that end up licensing to larger companies; Robogrip, Porter Cable Restorer, Grip-it screw extractors etc.
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10 hours ago, tugnut1 said:
I'm going to be creating a video on some tricks for getting good pocket hole joints shortly. I haven't used the Kreg corner jig shown above, but it looks like it has potential.
It works a lot better for miters, maybe I need to get at least four of them and it would work better but the surface isn't grippy so the pieces can move on you.
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20 hours ago, tugnut1 said:
I didn't buy this today, but I bought it very recently.
The Rockler Clamp it Corner Clamping jig.
I have to say I love these clamps. I'm getting much better results when building things out of pocket holes than I did in the past.
These aren't my photos just so you know.
I might have to get those. I'm not a huge fan of the Kreg corner clamp, sometimes it still comes out a little off and my OCD can't take it.
It's ok for some things but not great.
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Advertising is always in the best case scenario, that's just how it works. It's the customer's job to be informed on how likely that best case scenario is...literally every tool company makes claims that are questionable.
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It depends on the quality of the steel but in general it will be more likely to break given the same torque as a thicker walled socket.
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9 minutes ago, DR99 said:
My only issue is phones seem to be insanely expensive for what they are.
Agreed but if you imagine you spread out the cost of a phone over the cost of two years, it's not a bad investment if you use it a lot. It's still about $40 a month but that's about $1.40 a day...cheaper than a lot of stupid things we buy, like a bottle of water or a soda. A lot cheaper than a pack of cigarettes if you smoke.
Though it also goes to show you how cheap laptops and TVs have become, and it shows the value of a good mattress...and what a scam insurance is...
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It's really early in this technology, you have to start somewhere. I certainly don't think tracking is something you can count on, not with any system out there now. It needs cellular/GPS in the tracking and several satellites even then it can be foiled by a steel roof or an aging battery. The best thing we can count on is the idea of it not working if it isn't being seen in your app...but that could cause issues and could be defeated with a board change or possibly even shorting the super cap or battery on the PCB.
What tools did you buy today?
in Power Tools
Posted
Yeah, I want those pretty bad but not that bad.