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BMack37

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Posts posted by BMack37

  1. On 12/9/2017 at 1:21 PM, Yannis said:

    I have been unscrewing what seems like 100s of screws from my old model railroad layout. The drill does work very nicely as a driver.

     

    Out of curiosity, it has some sort of electronic trigger right? I am asking because in very few cases the trigger wont get pressed with the first get-go and needs a second try. Sort of like some safety engaging. Is that normal? I cannot replicate this in some specific condition, it just happens on some particular cases where i tried to unscrew some screws.

     

    Many thanks

    Yannis

     

    It's not really the trigger but yes there are electronics in the drill that prevent overload and overheating.

    • Thanks 1
  2. 11 hours ago, rcarnes911 said:

    I was at home Depot this morning and saw this portable table, so I picked it up, so far it's nice and all but the legs don't fold you have to pull them out and the clamp holders are supposed to fit any standard clamp I guess none of my clamps are "standard" think I will try it out for a couple days and maybe return it and get something elsed7e82635b32999bf8247fd7b938bb272.jpg

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     

     

    The leg design is why I went with the Keter. This is also made by Keter so their clamps should fit but I'd return it. I like Dewalt's new table. The Keter is nice but the legs don't lock as nicely as I'd like them to in the closed position.

  3. That''s really interesting, you see how far off the meter is in capacitance, it's supposed to be around -185mV and it's +27.3mV, in resistance it's not as bad but still off a little more than I'd imagine it would be, I'd guess it would be within +/- 5mV due to our DMMs and leads. 

    I'll try to do some research and take a look at mine and see if I see some trimmers that might solve the problem. the capacitance range is worrying.

  4. 6 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:

    Gloves are the bane of an Electrician’s existence. We sometimes have to wear them, I want to wear them, but you simply cannot do fine/precision work.
    I tried fingerless gloves, or gloves with the tip of the first and middle finger missing, and the result is pretty much the same.

    Someone needs to make a proper fitting glove for high dexterity applications!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    What they should do is a seemless sheep skin finger tips with neoprene or thick elastic on the base of the finger. It would probably be expensive but it would be tight and soft, which is always nice...wait, what were we talking about?

  5. The HF mechanics gloves and latex gloves are nice. I have a ton of Mechanix gloves, I buy them on clearance, I like them a lot but haven't used most because I'm waiting for the first pair to wear out...some of them feel a lot less durable.

     

    They do have a microfiber material that I'd strongly advise to NOT use if you're near spark or flame, microfibers are extremely flammable but super durable even when thin.

  6. My CL700 is dead on in the spec range and matches my Fluke 324 with speed and accuracy but with additional features. The input protection is really good on the Klein too.

     

    I think these meters are made by Uni-T so maybe we can find some repair threads, those are really popular clamp meters for the EEVB community.

  7. That's a shame...I'm without a doubt a Fluke DMM guy, I keep trying others and all of them have several deal breakers for me. The Klein clamp meter has been a different story, I haven't found a reason to pick the Fluke over it...if it quits that quick, that's pretty darn disappointing.

     

    Wondering if there's a simple fix. Could be a resistor slipping out of spec. Can you select resistance and connect a DMM to the leads to get the test voltage for me? Maybe there's a resistor out of spec causing the voltage(used to test) to rise or fall and knocking it out of spec. That's just my first thought, I'll try to do some research next week.

     

    I'm assuming you've already tried using new test leads.

  8. 2 hours ago, jtkendall said:

     

    Thanks, I'll give that a try since I have WD40, if it doesn't work I'll go buy some Goo Gone.

     

    Buy some Go Gone anyway...it's one of the most useful chemicals you can buy. I have several bottles all over the place, there isn't much it can't remove and it won't eat away at plastics or paint. The last time I used it was on a plastic drill bit case telescoping that I was reusing to store my planer's replacement blades. Those stickers aren't supposed to come off and Goo Gone got it off on pretty thin plastic. 

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