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Or Metachi

This will confuse people. Imagine you were buying a Ryobi HPT tool, you'd think it was a Ryobi. They should have come up with something different or used Hikoki. Workers in stores will be busy explaining "what's the difference?" to the customers .

I think systainers are too small, too flimsy, and too expensive. I was looking at the Makita version a couple of weeks ago while picking up an L-Boxx I ordered (in-store pick up). The L-boxx is bigger (good sized) and feels stronger. Perhaps if they were exactly the same price it might be a harder choice between the two. I just can't see the extra value in Systainer. I understand the Makita version is probably the worst Systainer available though.

They should have a cord between the battery and the soldering iron. Either clip the battery to your belt or put it on a bench. It would still be cordless and would allow for a very slim and lightweight soldering iron.

Thanks Korno. The chuck on the ps22 is strange. It's much deeper than the impact drivers I've used. Actually, that era for Bosch is strange (bad ergonomics on 18V grips and no rubber over mold for example). A 30mm or 35mm bit would be needed to work like the ones in the photos above.

No as far as I know they don't, but I'm talking about the small thin grooves that are usually on each of the 6 corners of a 25mm hex bit. Different to the longer bits with the single large indent that goes all the way around. This is apparently supposed to hold both types, and the locking pin/ball bearing inside the chuck is positioned in one of the corners so it does hold the 25mm bits, just like in the photo, but you can't put too much pressure on the bit or it will slip and go deeper into the chuck. I just looked up the user manual and it states that "One inch bits should only be used along with a bit holder". I guess that's the answer. But there's more photos:

Some reviews and online videos mention that it can take 25mm bits. Bosch even has this photo on their website. It's misleading. The chuck is too deep for them.

Can anyone tell me more about the chuck on this thing? Mine doesn't seem to hold buts very well (unless i'm doing it wrong). If I load a bit so the ball bearing inside the chuck is sitting in the grove on a 1 inch bit or within the indented section on a 2 inch bit (this is how you load them isn't it?), then when any pressure is put on the bit it will slip and go inside the chuck (with almost none of the driving end being left exposed with the 1 inch bits). It's supposed to take 1 inch bits I believe. Basically I have to use 50mm bits and insert them all the way into the chuck until the bit hits the end.

If I have my Dewalt drill on very low clutch settings, it often clicks once or twice when braking. The motor stops but the chuck still has momentum, so the clutch slips a bit. At least I think that's what's happening. Probably not related to what you're experiencing though. It doesn't sound right.

All over the internet people give Dewalt a hard time for their 20V Max but ignore 12V labeling. What about Milwaukee and their M12? It's just as bad but never gets a mention, anywhere. People only seem to complain about Dewalt. At least Dewalt and Makita state it's "Max". It should be M12 Max or M10.8

I'm a big fan of the cheap LED lights on Ebay. This one has to be my favourite so far. It feels high quality, has a belt clip, magnet, has 2 brightness levels that are perfect, a single LED on the end for flashlight mode, and is USB chargeable. Only $7 AUD! There's a bigger version too, so I've ordered one.

Ahh, I have that tool and forgot about that. Mine doesn't work too well but its definitely better than the others. The string trimmer is my worst for rattle.

Agree. I love those little round white rubber things. Great design, simple and effective. All my Dewalt tools rattle and my TD170 doesn't.

I doubt the any M12 drill could beat the Subcompact Makita drill (my BS18 quick Metabo does though). But, I haven't used M12 so I probably have no idea. Look at the online videos though. They mostly run the M12 with the 4ah, which is 6 cells, and one video showed it struggling (relative to the 6 cell) with a 3 cell battery. That's equivalent to the subcompact with a 10 cell 4ah battery. On paper the max torque may be the same but the Makita can likely produce higher torque at higher rpm. The videos seem to show the Makita clearly handling similar drilling and driving work better. We need a side by side comparison. But anyone doing it please use a 10 cell 3ah-6ah on the Makita if using the 6 cell 4ah on the M12. @HiltiWpg just do some time comparisons with different sized bits and screws and report back here. Or just keep drilling bigger holes and driving bigger screws and report back who did the biggest.

I've seen those. They're 3D printed and WAY too expensive, even for Australia. We already pay too much for Ryobi but for not much more you can get a genuine charger and battery. If they were priced around $30 AUD I would definitely get one.

I've found this thread but haven't read the whole thing yet. It's indicating possible issues with the 1.3ah batteries. https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/community/category/108v-battery-question/382600-t/p9#/main

Thanks for the info. Now that you've mentioned the drop in one light on the fuel gauge, i'm 99% certain that's when mine started doing it as well! I'm still on the first charge with this thing.

Update: after it stopped working last time, I left the battery in and let it sit for a while. It works again now. It was sitting for about 30 minutes before I tried it again. Could it be some sort of safety protection? If so, I don't understand why. It stops working without actually putting any load on it. I'm using a 1.3ah battery.

I have a brand new 12V PS22 (or GSR 10.8V-EC HX) that randomly stops working. Sometimes the light continues to work (but doesn't spin), other times no light or spinning at all. It has both stopped while driving (suddenly cuts out), and on the next pull of the trigger. I'm not really sure what fixes it but it does eventually start working again. I think removing the battery a few times helps, but never immediately. Any thoughts? Loose connection? Bad connection with battery? Bad electronics? I ordered it from Korea so I don't know if warranty will be covered in Australia. I'm annoyed about this. I had my Metabo 18V full size recip saw fail last week (pull trigger and nothing), and now another issue with a brand new brushless tool (add this to the list of other new brushless tools I have issues with). I've been super busy with work and a baby over the last 12 months so I've hardly used any of these tools. I'm only a DIY user, so If any of you guys that rely on tools daily to earn a living are constantly having issues like I am, it must be absolutely infuriating! I just want to be confident the next time I pick up a tool the damn thing will work properly! Is that unreasonable?

I've always had a bit of a problem with the Bosch 12V grips. It's not the thickness, it's the trigger sitting too low. When the back of my hand is tucked right up into the back of the grip (as it should be), my index finger naturally ends up over the LED light (with middle finger ending up over the trigger), so I have to either try and reach down to the trigger with my index finger, use my middle finger for the trigger, or try not to hold the drill at the very top of the grip. I feel the same way. The Makita 18V subcompact line is compact, but nothing like the Bosch 12V. Seeing them side-by-side in the photos I posted above actually makes the subcompact look big (and not many tools would do that)! The entire footprint of the tools are so much smaller without the slide packs hanging off them. The new 12V Makita do feel compact, but also nothing like Bosch 12V. I'm pretty sure the tools are identical to the 18V subcompacts, so you only save on the size and weight of two 18650 cells. Great that we have the option of both. I wish I could have picked them up in the store the other day, I think they will be perfectly balanced tools.

I feel the same way, both would be great 12V tools. I wanted that soldering iron. I'm also looking for a rotary tool but I've always had Bosch 12V in mind for that. I would have liked the M12 caulking gun as well. Here's some photos from an ebay auction. Look at the size of that grip!

I had a good look at some of the M12 range in person today and I definitely won't be buying into the line-up anymore. They're just not compact. The grips in particular are huge compared to the Bosch 12V. I was really hoping I'd like them; on paper the M12 line up looks great.

That DDS183 is compact!

Exactly what I wanted to know as well. I didn't buy the 887 purely because of that low setting (it was the final and deciding factor between 2 very good tools). Instead I got a Makita TD170, which only just very slightly felt to be the better option. It's an awesome impact driver, but I would have preferred the Dewalt due to the LED lights surrounding the chuck, the ergonomics, and the simple mode switch (easy to change mechanical switch). I use low setting a lot and particularly disliked the pause, but also the jerking of the Dewalt when impacting in the low setting.

On my 7 hour trip across to Sydney today I popped in to a Mitre 10 store and was able to see the Makita 12V in person for the first time. They look to be very good tools! I thought the grips might have been smaller than the 18V subcompact but they seem identical. Very comfortable. They were fixed to the shelf so I didn't have a chance to assess the weight. The hex driver is very compact but feels larger than the Bosch because it's so tall. Perhaps Makita will become the best 12V line if they produce enough tools.