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Table saw noise after motor smoking.


serf27

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Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and seek help.

I have a tradesman tables saw. model no. BTS10BW.

I was doing a job the other day installing some laminate wood flooring. Luckily the job was nearly done, i just needed the door and closet end pieces. while cutting one of the last piece, the motor made a weird noise, and turned off, some smoke came out of the motor and the house outlet fuse blew. after i reset the fuse and thermal switch on the saw, when i turned it on, it was making a nasty clunk noise, its sounds like the motor is spinning at normal speed but the blade does not follow it. the blade and motor are all tight, nothing is loose.

 

Is it worth taking apart and fixing and just replacing a 10-15$ part?

If so, does anyone know what might be going on?

Or do i just ditch it.

Thank you in advance, sorry if this is in the wrong section of the forum.

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@serf27 first off, welcome to the forum!

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/22234

I added a link to lumber jocks so you could see some varying opinions about your saw. I'm not familiar with Tradesman branded saws but know they are pretty inexpensive machines. I'm not sure I'd run right out and buy a new saw UNLESS you plan on cutting some more wood. But I would NOT use that saw any more till you fix it. It sounds like the drive may be shot whereas your hearing that clunking sound. That could be a pretty serious safety issue. If the fix is like you said, $15 maybe it's worth doing but if you think you're going to be using it for more projects, hit CL and find a decent contractor saw or bigger!

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@serf27 first off, welcome to the forum!

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/22234

I added a link to lumber jocks so you could see some varying opinions about your saw. I'm not familiar with Tradesman branded saws but know they are pretty inexpensive machines. I'm not sure I'd run right out and buy a new saw UNLESS you plan on cutting some more wood. But I would NOT use that saw any more till you fix it. It sounds like the drive may be shot whereas your hearing that clunking sound. That could be a pretty serious safety issue. If the fix is like you said, $15 maybe it's worth doing but if you think you're going to be using it for more projects, hit CL and find a decent contractor saw or bigger!

Thank you! and I did already see that post, guess they aren't all that great.

The thing is, my father in law let me borrow this one! Ahh, so I'm hoping I can fix it and not for a high price.

If not I will be forced to buy him a new one, when I could've just bought myself the new one.

Where do I go about the new part I will need?

 

Edit: Also, I did 3 other jobs before this job where the saw broke, the jobs went well and nothing happened. So I think it was time for whatever broke, to break, just happened to break in my hands.

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Oh and by the way, check your saws motor to see who actually made it. Tradesman is probably just a cover company for the OEM that makes the motor. You might have to look for that company on the part list.

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I'd try....

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/

By the way....DUDE! That SUCKS!!!!! That's why I try not to borrow too many tools! Oh and I never loan the. Out!

 

 

Oh and by the way, check your saws motor to see who actually made it. Tradesman is probably just a cover company for the OEM that makes the motor. You might have to look for that company on the part list.

 Wow, first forum I've ever been on that you can double quote by just clicking it!

 

Yea, i originally intended it to use it for my house only, but I did a side job with it and bam! I couldn't find anything under tradesman or the model number on that site. I'll look at the motor tomorrow when I take it off and see if I can fix anything.

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sounds like motor stalled, and the breaker would not pop, due to being plugged into a small gauge extension cord, or maybe plugged into a poor outlet source.

I can't really remember, but it may have plugged into an attachment  that converts a 3 prong male end tip to a 2 prong end tip, eliminating the ground. I should have plugged in into the straight outlet with the ground, and not used that attachment. Could that have caused the problem?

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I can't really remember, but it may have plugged into an attachment that converts a 3 prong male end tip to a 2 prong end tip, eliminating the ground. I should have plugged in into the straight outlet with the ground, and not used that attachment. Could that have caused the problem?

That could most definitely caused your problem. The only adapter you should use is a GFCI (single or 3-way) between the wall outlet and the tool. This would provide protection to the tool from any voltage change and save you from tripping a breaker.

I am guessing that you used the adapter due to working in an older home? If this is the case the receptacle you plugged into was most likely not grounded.

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Poison and Chris are spot on with the 3 prong adapters. I always use a heavy gauge extension cord for table saws if I am far from an outlet. Never saw or used an adapter I felt comfortable using for something with that much current draw. 

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This is exactly the reason I don't borrow shit if I have any choice at all.

Kinda sounds like you've burnt the brushes out of it. If so, it's super cheap to fix and can likely be had at ereplacementparts.com

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I also do not like using tools without a proper ground, a used compressor I bought a while ago had the ground prong ripped off, I changed the plug to one that had the ground before use.

If I would've known I could've bought one of these off CL for about 50$, I would have just bought it! Learned the lesson of not borrowing anymore things.

 

So I took it apart today that I had some time. It turns out the bottom bearing that holds the motor shaft, seized up, and it spun within the plastic housing and it spun at the speed on the motor! It burned some of the plastic that holds the bearing center

I believe this is what cause the smoke, and is what causes some resistance when spinning the blade with the motor off.

I am going to replace the bearing, hopefully the burned plastic will not cause any trouble. The brushes look good on the contact points but one side of each brush is chipped. Should I replace these to?

heres a pic of the brushes. They both look like this, just on one side.

0D95CAF7-C36E-4FB0-AD18-E1FCBBB3B9AC_zps

 

Heres a picture of all the burnt plastic pieces I removed!

D5DA3825-F3C1-4F2D-ABA2-FD3378DED982_zps

 

I searched for the parts on that site, all the info I could get from the bearing is AOKE 6200Z.

This came up, do you guys know if its the same?

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/6200zz-p-969436.html

 

and for the brushes, idk what to search. Model numb. on the motor is rm872.

serial no. 112297.

 

Thanks everyone who has helped me with this!

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I'm not so sure about that @Serf27 as far as getting those parts. I have a tool crib up the road and could bring the brushes over there to see if they have a comparable set. As far as the bearing set I am not sure. Have you called over to the company to see if they have a parts list available? Or find out what saw this one is based on?

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I wonder if you will have to epoxy the bushing in not a biggie but a pain.

You mean on the outer side of the bearing right? the part that sits in the housing? That is a good idea, I will have to add some to make sure the bearing sits right.

 

I'm not so sure about that @Serf27 as far as getting those parts. I have a tool crib up the road and could bring the brushes over there to see if they have a comparable set. As far as the bearing set I am not sure. Have you called over to the company to see if they have a parts list available? Or find out what saw this one is based on?

 

I don't know if I have one of those around here? Any key words I could search for to see if theres a shop near me?

I called a call number that was on the table saw, but it just went to voicemail. I will try calling tradesman directly.

 

 

Also, the shaft that goes in the motor housing, it attaches through a gear to the shaft where the saw blade is attached too. when I spin the motor shaft, it rotates way more than the blade shaft does. Does this make sense? If so, is it normal for that to happen.

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