regopit

Thanks I'm like in Shock right now !

Chase has cooter fever he will be alright

Thanks for posting Reds

Give this a read Are High-Performance Windows Worth Their High Cost? Simple payback may not be enough to justify the investment in triple-glazed windows, even in a cold climate http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/are-high-performance-windows-worth-their-high-cost Also I will send you a good PDF to read so check your mail

I hope that you do not think that I'm picking apart your work, the work that I can see looks fine. It is the crap you don’t see or think about that comes back to bite you in the ass. I know that you want it to be safe and I do not think that you will have 50 plus people dancing on it but you never know. In addition, you live in Mission Viejo, Ca and the ground likes to move every now and then.

That sucks but the road rash leads to a good story. A good story never begins with I was sitting at my moms house drinking a coke. (unless your mom was crazy like mine was)

From the photos it looks like you have the balusters attached to your joist and rim joist that is not allowed. Here is a link that shows you what lateral support is all about as well as other deck issues. Basically what lateral support is, it is a way of attaching you deck to your floor joist in side your home. Lateral support has just come about in the last few years. Here in Maryland they are cracking down on lateral support and railing issues. I have had a few people call me after their insurance company came out and did and inspection to renew and had to fix their deck that they had built in the last year or so and if said problems where not fixed they would be canceled. http://www.awc.org/pdf/education/20140522_webinar_dca6_2012ircversion.pdf

If you want to meet code you have a few things you have to do. To start you should have to rows of lags staggered with 5" max between rows attaching the ledger. I don't see any lateral attachments for lateral loads. As of 2012 this is required on all decks @ 2 locations with a 1500 pound rating. Your railing would fail and the min size of a footer is 12"

CONGRATS! Sounds like a sweat job.

I like my Red Wings

Another tool to add to the mix Milwaukee 5263-21 5/8 in. SDS Plus 5.5 Amp Rotary Hammer Kit 1.5 yr old $100.00 plus shipping (going cordless 18V) Milwaukee 48-55-3490 Contractor Bag New $12.00 Plus shipping

Don't let Dan see this or it will show up on the TIA credit card. Eric: Dan what in the hell did you buy for $2,800 Dan:Here let me show my review The pink, grey and white machine has a massage pipe at the front which apparently can be adjusted according to the height of its user. Speed, frequency, amplitude and temperature are also controllable. It has a small screen on the top which plays films for the user to help them with the extraction process. A website which is selling the machine for $2,800 promoting it stating 'it can give patients very comfortable feeling.'

I bet that is a wild ride

send me a private message with your address and I will let you know

Trigger Valve Assembly 1 Disconnect the gun from the air hose. Locate the roll pin directly above the trigger. Lay the gun on its left side and use a small metal punch and ballpeen hammer to drive the roll pin out, until the trigger mechanism is loose. Remove the trigger to expose the front of the trigger valve. 2 Pull the valve assembly from the nailer's handle, pulling toward the tip of the gun. Inspect the valve and O rings, looking for wear on the rings and cracks or splitting in the plastic valve. If the valve appears undamaged and the trigger has been easily returning to its original position after firing, replace only the O rings. If there is apparent damage to the valve, or the trigger has malfunctioned, replace the entire assembly. 3 Fit new O rings onto the valve body and apply oil to the rings with a cotton swab, or apply oil to the rings on the new valve, depending on your repair option. Fit the valve back into the nailer handle, aligning the grooves on the valve with the opening for a proper fit. Press the valve all the way in. 4 Fit the trigger back in place and use the metal punch and hammer to reset the roll pin, with gentle taps, to move the pin slowly to avoid bending the pin or damaging the head. Reconnect the air hose and return the tool to normal use. Driver Cylinder Service 5 Disconnect the nailer from the air hose. Remove the four screws holding the square vent to the back of the gun. Use an allen key and turn the screws counterclockwise to remove them. Lift the cover from the rear of the gun. 6 Push a thin metal rod through the fastener port in the tip of the gun to push the driver cylinder out the back of the gun. Inspect the cylinder and O rings as previously outlined for the trigger valve. Inspect the metal driver as well, looking for bends, grooves or rough edges. Replace the O rings, the O rings and cylinder or the O rings cylinder and driver, depending on the damage you find. 7 Insert the cylinder into the gun. Align the notches to the nailer body for correct fit and press the cylinder all the way home. Reinstall the rear vent and install the four mounting screws, tightening them with the allen key. Reattach the air hose and return the gun to normal use.

Ok guys it is that time of the year, where I try not to take on any work till October. So now I'm starting to clean things out. Tools I no longer use or I'm going to up grade. With that said lets get this show on the road. First up a DeWalt DC385 Reciprocating saw and charger the Batteries are shot Free to a good home just pay the shipping Next is a fuel Hammer drill like I said in another post this has laid in my box and has never been used $75.00 plus shipping And a Milwaukee 18V Circular saw (non Fuel) $75.00 plus shipping This saw is 6mo's old up grading to the Fuel)

Really my friends would add to it. Blue Boy mags and what not

I see a whole new business opportunity. A store front 12 or so booths and away you go! If that thing could cook and clean who would get married

Ok maybe I’m looking at this all wrong, but it is a hammer drill you really don’t need all of that torque. You what something to chip and brake away the material so you want is BPH . I have the Milwaukee Fuel hammer drill and it lies in my toolbox it has never had a bit in it I'v never have used it. If I’m drilling concrete, stone or whatever I use a SD rotary Drill and for wood of metal I use my Fuel drill. I guess if you really want to hurt yourself, all that torque is a good thing. Now that I think about it anyone, want a deal on a Milwaukee Fuel hammer drill?

I have had the DeWalt, Ridgid, and the Bosch and the are all good RO sanders, the weak spot is the dust collection. I have sold them all and have gone with Festool. When working in someones home the last thing you want to hear is someone bitching about the dust going through their house. Festool's dust collection is the best out there, It leaves very little or no dust behind. With that said it comes with a price.

What a jackass for $450 he could have rented a walk behind trencher for a week.

What the hell is wrong with this guy I saw him throw away a Harbor Fright 25% off coupon at the 2:48 mark.

Looks like a nice set up but those belt clips would have to go. I dislike those things.

YO YO YO Looks good, and it will go good with your other tools with the green trim.

If you are getting into construction and one day go out on your own you will be buying tools to the day you retire.