rossi7x

In my opinion, the T-Stak is lesser priced than the Tough system for a couple of reasons... It is narrower (smaller) in size, does not have IP ratings, and also does not have the ability to Stak onto the 'Arms' of the trolley or the likes of my Van racking system (as personally manufactured and documented on this forum by a couple of us Guys in Europe)... On the other hand, the T-Stak has features that are better than the tough system.. Although smaller, it makes it easier to handle, and is better suited for smaller hand tools which the Tough system is pretty much useless at. It is versatile, as you can clip varying forms of boxes together (depending on your work criteria) and can split down to quite small individual units. For me, it is a complimentary box system to the Tough-box and shouldn't be viewed as a cheaper alternative... What the Tough System lacks, the T-Stak can cover.. And Vice-Versa... Back to the OP... The DS250 for me will probably not end up on my Racking System as it is not IP rated, and it does not work as well as the T-Stak for my personal uses....

I assume you are talking about the DS250 2 Drawer unit for the Tough system... I have seen this unit, and the first thing to mention, is that it does not meet any IP ratings (unlike the other toolboxes in the rest of the range)... This is because it is a drawer unit.. I have not heard any reviews of this product (either good or bad) from trades guys using it, and I personally do not have one in my Van racking set up. I have mailed the UK product manager directly over your question, and he has informed me that the DS250 is weight loaded at 10KG per drawer.. I suppose it depends on what tools you want to carry. For my hand-tools I use the T-stak system, with a combination of a T-stak 1 on top of a 4 (which the the 2 drawr version... Hope this helps...

It's my understanding that engineering has been given the green light to re-design the 16g nailer and put it onto the New 18v/20v Max platform... I think that the same engineering team that has worked on the Framing Nailer are all now working on future updated 16g versions.. Based on that, I can't see these coming to end users for 18months or so...

This is (in my opinion) never gonna be made to fit the 'plug in' style 18v batteries... The power and efficiency of the New 18volt (Europe) 20v Max (U.S.) means that eventually all tools will be fazed out on the older platform, and re-designed on the New.. The older battery technology would not be able to deliver the performance for the New Nailer either.. Once you've tried the 20v Max system, you'll switch over (trust me)... The New Nailer totally rocks. I used it on a job-site in the UK 2 weeks ago, and the temp was minus 2.5.... The Paslode's (4 on site) would mis-fire due to the sustained minus degrees (and the guys were switching cells and warming up between uses) whereas the Dewalt rocked along.. The Paslodes could only manage 3-7 shots before mis-firing, whereas we rocked along with 500-600 shots with the Dewalt with no issues.... apart from needing to switch out batteries for a re-charge...

Must be in the last stages of development tweaks, as the Dewalt facebook page (U.S) has posted a release date for 'spring 2013'... Will have battery charging, and DAB on it..

Specs on the Makita says it cuts 75mm x 130mm max... although you will probably get a bit more cross cut on thinner material... I roll with the DWS780 XPS.. 305mm blade, and 110 x 305 cut... although I can get about 325 cross cut (@90 degrees).. The XPS light (cross cut positioning light) works real well, and especially in the Winter, where it actually makes the saw safer to use as it almost acts like an area work light.. If it is slightly too big for you, try the DWS 717 XPS... same style of saw but with a 10" blade rather than the 12"...

Basically bespoke metal framework to mimic the trolley (obviously less the wheels).. Try checking out this photo bucket album Paul... Hope the link works.. PM me if it doesn't.... http://s1066.photobucket.com/albums/u404/Rossi7x/

I would deffo go for the New XR slide pack platform.. The Tools are better for a start... I too have a Radio an batteries on the old style 'plug in' platform.. Bu I am keeping the batteries for the Radio only, and I am gonna wait to see wether the New Radio cuts the mustard.. If you can, I would even try to go for the Brushless Impact driver. The run time on the batteries is really good, esp with the New 4.0a/h batteries.. The advantage of the New platform is that all batteries from 10.8v to 18v are chargeable in the same charger. you can also buy different batteries for differing Jobs.. ie a smaller lighter 1.5a/h battery will make the tool feel lighter, and be usefull for Kitchens etc.. whereas a 4.0a/h battery will be slightly heavier but will give you maximum run-time (ie impact driving Index screws in a roof)... Batteries are like the fuel tank of the unit... Power is still the same, but a 3.0a/h will run approx twice as long as a 1.5a/h, and approx 30% less than a 4.0a/h.. If i'm doing Kitchens then I roll with 1.5a/h batteries all day long to make the tool more compact and lighter New platform all the way..

On the back of my van Paul, I use the DE7035 Trestles... Mine were so abused (and standing up well) that when I had my racking Powder coated in black, I decided to have the trestle ends done in black to match (from the original yellow).. Here they are in the Van... And here is a link to them in the UK... available as singles or pairs... http://www.angliatoolcentre.co.uk/dewalt-de7035-xj-heavy-duty-work-support-stand-saw-horse-set-of-2-pid38858.html Another Van on here is from Mr Yellow (Europe).. His trestles are upright on the bulkhead.. here is his (i am sure he won't mind me sharing this pic) Hope this helps...

Not sure they do it as a spare part no... Will find out for you... Failing that, drop me a PM with your details, as I think I might have one that I will never use.... Might Also have a spare couple of trays from the DS300's too.... Hope this helps Julian...

I think that the official line from Dewalt, is that the Main Carrying Handle is in the Lids (or a second on the front of a 150).. I am unaware of any 'small print' stating this anywhere though. The side handles are merely 'locking points' for the racking system, and only really to be used to lift/move the boxes from any racking system... wether that be in a van, workshop, or trolley.. I have loaded my boxes with a view to keeping them as light as possible making them easier to carry. And have a lockable vault in the van for most of my power tools that I feed from on a 'As and When' basis...

I'll get a photo today... If you are looking at getting most of your kit in Toughboxes, then here is another idea for you.. This is how I have utilised my boxes as a racking system in the van....

Dewalt will concentrate on a certain amount of tools that will go into the Tough Systems.. Obviously the biggest sellers etc.. When it comes to putting an SDS in a 150 Tough Box, the cost of the item rockets.. I had the same issue when looking for an 18v SDS in a tough system.. Basically I had to buiy the Cordless unit, and a separate 150 Tough Box. I then took the original box that the cordless cam in, cut the lid off, and then cut the base part to size and created my own insert... I'll take a photo and post up for you to see... Might be your only option...

Yellow has already trumped orange in the upcoming Nailer market, and I am sure they will give orange another kicking in the Multi-master market... Corded and cordless... 10-12 months I reckon.. mark my words..!!

Just to clarify (as my post doesn't make it totally clear) that the Intelligence is in the Tool, not the battery.. In the past, Dewalt tried putting the Intelligence in the Batteries, but in hindsight, it is obvious that this was totally wrong. A battery suffers from different loads and requirements form each tool. A torch/flashlight will not put any loading on the battery, but the intelligence required from the Torch/flashlight (not the battery) is to electronically protect the battery against being discharged beyond safe limits, from which the cells become damaged and maximum re-charge can never be achieved. The same goes for a Radio for example.. On the other hand, the demands on a battery in a Circ. Saw, SDS, or Re-cip are on another level.. Hence the intelligence checking for battery temp (upper and lower) motor temp, motor RPM, load on the battery and discharge 'spikes' of the battery... As you say, a great use of feedback to make better tools for the future based upon realtime applications, and potentially more powerful battery cells..

I understand that maximum Torque figures might sway end user's decision at point of purchase, but I think nowadays there are more things that come into account.. It also seems a numbers game to me... In Europe we have 18v, in the U.S. you have 20v Max.. we have 10.8v and the U.S. has 12v Max.. Same outputs, different descriptions, different reasons to come to the same conclusion.. Other factors that I prefer (with the New Dewalt range) is the intelligent switching on these New XR units.. I too have had drills in the past that didn't stall upon usage, but what really happens.. the motors burn out, the batteries are continually damaged and premature failing occurs. These new drills (as all of the XR range) have intelligent switching that measures Battery temp (upper and lower), Motor temp, RPM, Max power spike of the Battery etc... If any of these are not within Dewalt's optimum (for longevity) settings, the switch will 'enforce' an apparent stall until such times that the tradesman adjusts setting accordingly (usually change of torque setting by virtue of gearbox speed) Dewalt can now take a readout of any New 'Slide-pack' tool and it will measure everything on a readout. Hot Pack shutdowns, Cold pack shutdowns, Max spike, Max motor temp, number of forward trigger pulls, number of reverse. How many stalls, and even how many no-load shutdowns (the number if times the drill is shut down due to trigger being engaged in the back if the truck by mistake during transit).. In fact the drill will recognise this situation, and shut down so that the battery is not drained.. You could say that the drill is becoming more intelligent than it's users.. (not all, and not a generalisation of this thread).. If (as per the OP) the Bosch drill seems to out perform the Dewalt, is this actually so, or at what cost to the internals/electronics or batteries of the product.. For me, this intelligent protection is useful as I have several guys that use my tools. They are good on the most part, but when Women or Booze has had a better influence over a weekend, then the brain takes a whole lot longer to get up to speed on a Monday. This normally (in the past) results in any size auger in the drill, speed three, and push like crazy. Not any more, as the drill let these guys know that brain has not yet engaged.. and will not function properly until the end user changes his attitude towards his own thought process... Not saying that this is playing a part of the original problem of this thread, just saying that there is whole load more to a drill nowadays other than torque and battery size.. and offering a thought as to why the OP is finding 'stalls' on the Dewalt when maybe in the past he wouldn't. When we get to Brushless drills (later this Autumn/Fall with Dewalt I believe) then things change yet again as far as comparable run times over standard Li-ion units.. although this will have no bearing on like for like Torque figures.. As time goes on, understanding the 'numbers game' is going to become increasingly harder, and Brand loyalty is going to play a more important role in future purchases for tradesmen.. I am not one to buy the cheapest of each tool, or the individual tools because they reach the maximum numbers for each category. For me, a one battery platform is massively important, as I know that I will never have an issue with a 'dead' tool, and therefore optimum battery performance figures are slightly less important. If i've got 10 batteries in the truck that fit all my range, what does it matter if Makita or Bosch bring out a unit that performs marginally better (on paper).. And with intelligent switching to protect my batteries, my Dewalt kit (in my opinion) is going to outlast most of the competition.. All I know, that anyone who uses my XR range of Dewalt tools here in the UK, generally end up changing their opinions and following suit down the Dewalt route...

If you ordered 18v batteries from the UK, then they would work on your '20v Max' US products... Basically it's a numbers game... The batteries are rated at 20v max output (with no load) or 18v Loaded.. This is obviously simplified terms.. Same goes for the US 12v Max system, whereas in the UK and Europe we call it 10.8volt.. So either sets of batteries are compatible with the US or UK models of drills.. and I believe can be charged on any Dewalt compatible charger from any 'Marketplace'.. ie US, Europe or UK... The only thing you would have to consider is the chargers, and plug types from whichever Market (ie UK or Europe) and also the Voltage 110 or 230v.... The 4.0amp/hr battery is slightly different to the 3.0amp/hr in as much as the battery has a yellow 'top' on the 4.0 and is black on the 3.0 (easily distinguishable from a distance) and also has a Battery level indicator on the rear of the 4.oamp/hr too... I mainly use the 1.5amp batteries in cordless drills for the weight issue, and have a couple of 4.0's for when I use the Jig-saw or Circular saw.. Hope this helps guys..

Looking good Mr Yellow. I agree with inserts.. Might suit some people, but too be honest, I find them pointless. You would not get anywhere near as much in your drill box as you have.. Liking the grinder idea. Might have to 'get permission' to borrow that idea... Here's my Plunge saw set up in a DS300 box...

Here's a photo of the Newest Clamps (notice the new release lever position) and also the first prototype I was referring to.. Also, here is a shot of the Cal Crutchlow inspired sign written rail I use (one of a variety of Moto GP one's I own)..

Wow... you've got a sharp set of eyes to spot that one... That was the first ever prototype clamp. In fact it was a shop bought clamp that had the top part of the Clamp removed, and the Bar section welded on. That was prior to Dewalt even knowing whom they were going to buy any from. They still only had black rubber pads on the clamp end though.. If you notice, I have cut it down a lot, and put a bolt through the bottom to stop the clamp sliding off the main bar. I use this one for Cutting doors in height without taking them off their Hinges. For that operation, you need to use the 90 degree Square as well....

Hi Mr Yellow.. The clamps in the first picture are the one's that have been available for the first 3-4 years of sale with the track-saw (or plunge saw as we call it in UK/Europe).. The second picture is (i believe) what should have been supplied. The extra 'spacer' on the clamp allows you to clamp onto thinner pieces of timber (or sheet material) and should have been supplied as standard (i believe) as without these spacers, the clamps sometimes cause a problem when trying to release as they are so close to the workpiece. In fact, these spacers have now been supplied for a little while with the clamps.. so your photograph number 2 is in fact now out of date as the clamps have now been superseded again. The clamps that I think you might have received now are slightly smaller than previous years, have the removable spacer on them, and have the release button (as you said) in a different position. They are about 12mm (half inch) smaller in the size of the Jaw (compared to last years) and feel slightly lighter.. The oiriginal clamps where increasing in price beyond what Dewalt wanted to pay, so they sourced a cheaper alternative. I have both sets, and they both do the same job. Last years style definitely feel better in the palm of your hand, but the smaller one's for this year still do the same job. In fact, I have got a track-saw in a DS300 tough box, along with spare edging strip, 3 spare blades, 2 clamps (new style) and a 90 degree attachment. I will post up some photo's of this later, along with the 2 styles of clamps.. As for your last photo, I think this is Typical Dewalt advertising. They release computer generated images of stuff all the time, and never actually release the final article. To my knowledge (and I stand to be corrected) these have never made it to market).. Hope this clears things up..

Basically I would rule out the 18v tool.. Why would you want to go with 'Older' technology.. Personally I would go with the last Kit, and get the Angle driver... You never know it might come in usefull.. I bought this drill (in the UK) and prefer using it with the 1.5 AH batteries over the 3.0AH as it is so much lighter.. You don't get any less power with the 1.5AH set up, only less run time from the battery.. If you find you need extra run time from the batteries, you could always invest in a 4.0AH battery in the future.. All the batteries (1.5, 3.0 and 4.0) all charge on the same charger, so even if you decided to go the 12v max route in the future, those smaller batteries will still charge on the 20v charger.. This is only my opinion, but at least you will future proof your tool kit if you invest in the latest technology.. Happy Shopping..

He we are Dano... Just for you.. Tea Box - Tough Box Style.... View Inside...

As far I am aware, the 20v XR Li-ion kits are decided by the U.S. head-office.. In Europe they are still called 18v (as opposed to 20v max in the U.S.).. Originally the UK kits also came with a re-cip saw, and this was based upon the fact that cordless re-cip saws are a massive seller in the US, so they feel that the rest of the world should follow suit.. In fact, it is proven that a Jig-saw is a much better seller in Europe than a re-cip. Hence the fact that we now have a second 5 kit with a jig saw(as opposed to the re-cip) and also a 6 kit which adds the cordless grinder.. As another post say, buy a 5 kit and then add a bare unit jig-saw to suit..

Hi Addicted.... I used 'metric' equivalent to 1" square tube (being in the UK) and this seemed to fit really well.. It was even able to cope when I had the rack powder coated.. Using steel (as opposed to Aluminium) means that the corners are slightly rounded, and does not cause an issue.. Here's a shot of my bare steel from and a bracket.. More photo's kicking around if you need.. Hope this helps..