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Broken Garage Door Opener???


TylerDama

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Hey guys, I figured I would give the forums a try before replacing my garage door opener. I have a Chamberlain Garage door opener that seems to be on the fritz, a few weeks ago BOTH of my remotes started to only work when they wanted to. After a week they stopped altogether, Naturally I replaced the batteries but nothing changed, so I bought a new remote and that didn't work either. I am very confused  because the push button on the wall will open the door just not the remotes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Tyler

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Hello, I might be able to help you out. Please answer these questions to the best of your abilities

1)Model Number of Garage opener

2)age of opener and remotes

3)do you see an antenna wire hanging from the garage door opener?

4)do you have door safety sensors?

Although radio frequency protocols have changed throughout the years for garage door opener remotes, one constant is the fact they operate via radio frequency. Some WiFi routers and other electronic devices can corrupt the garage door spectrum, however this is very unlikely. WiFi and phones operate around the 2.4GHz-5GHz range, while garage door openers are somewhere in the 315MHz-390MHz, still check newly acquired devices, as sometimes the device fails FCC regs.

Most likely the problem is the antenna. You should see a piece of wire hanging from the garage door opener. That's the antenna, and it needs to be in good working order to pick up the Tx Freq from the remote. If your unit is old or if you live in a high humidity are, the wire can rust inside the insulator. Another possibility is what's called a "cold" solder joint. The solder point where the wire attaches to the PCB may be bad. A "cold joint" is often very hard to see and difficulty to troubleshoot. Good news though, it's very easy to fix. Bad soldering techniques and cheap parts cause "cold" solder joints. Removing the old antenna wire from the PCB (some disassembly required) and replace it with a new wire. Solder the new wire in place with 60/40 flux core solder. Should work a treat

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Hello, I might be able to help you out. Please answer these questions to the best of your abilities
1)Model Number of Garage opener
2)age of opener and remotes
3)do you see an antenna wire hanging from the garage door opener?
4)do you have door safety sensors?

Although radio frequency protocols have changed throughout the years for garage door opener remotes, one constant is the fact they operate via radio frequency. Some WiFi routers and other electronic devices can corrupt the garage door spectrum, however this is very unlikely. WiFi and phones operate around the 2.4GHz-5GHz range, while garage door openers are somewhere in the 315MHz-390MHz, still check newly acquired devices, as sometimes the device fails FCC regs.

Most likely the problem is the antenna. You should see a piece of wire hanging from the garage door opener. That's the antenna, and it needs to be in good working order to pick up the Tx Freq from the remote. If your unit is old or if you live in a high humidity are, the wire can rust inside the insulator. Another possibility is what's called a "cold" solder joint. The solder point where the wire attaches to the PCB may be bad. A "cold joint" is often very hard to see and difficulty to troubleshoot. Good news though, it's very easy to fix. Bad soldering techniques and cheap parts cause "cold" solder joints. Removing the old antenna wire from the PCB (some disassembly required) and replace it with a new wire. Solder the new wire in place with 60/40 flux core solder. Should work a treat

  1: the model number is is "1000SDR"

2: The label on the opener dates it to "99 the remotes were the same age and the replacement was brand new at HD and would not work either

3: Yes I do see the antenna

4:  Yes, I do have the safety sensors as well 

 

 

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Here is the user manual for your opener. http://www.liftmaster.com/CatalogResourcesV3/en-us/shared/files/tucmanuals/A2094M.pdf

First check the lock feature. If the door push bar is flashing, your lockout is active: Press and hold the the push bar for 2 sec. The bar will flash for as long as the lockout is active. Push and hold for another 2 sec and the flashing will stop, lock disabled. (Page 28)

If that does not work, you need to reprogram your remote. First clear all the old codes out. Press and hold the "smart" button on the opener unit until the indicator light goes out. (6 sec)

To program a remote, press and hold one of the buttons on your remote. Don't let it go,

Then, press and release the smart button on the garage opener unit.. The indicator lights on the opener unit will begin to blink, when your remote is paired the lights will flash, after the light flashes ones.. You can let go of the remote button. The remote is now programmed, test it and program any other remotes. (P29)

And if that doesn't work, let me know if:

1) while programming a remote, the light never stops blinking...

Or

2) when programming a remote, the lights stop blinking and I see the flash, but the door still won't open.

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Also another issues they had an while back is with the frequency of the remote and taking interference from military testing and radio communications. Since in the past remotes were setup on military bands, but military has priority of that frequency. Some companies did offer an receiver change out because of this. Since the DOD owns the Land Mobile Freqs 380-399 they don't have to worry about causing harmful interface. I found an news video from this year in Glendale , az about it.  There are an couple military bases near by you if im correct.

 

You might have to upgrade or do an conversion to fix that issues. Hope this does help you out and maybe you should contact the maker and see if they will help you out.

http://www.kpho.com/story/24605328/west-valley-garage-doors-jammed

http://www.tdsupplies.com/articles/395_MHz_Military_Radio_Remote_Interference.html

http://www.eham.net/articles/15375

 

 

P.S I'm an licensed amateur radio operator and a Mission Radio Operator for USAF

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