Jump to content

Mr. Yellow

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    887

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Mr. Yellow

  1. Mr. Yellow
    Yes, it's a valve. They are air filled. It's a bit hard to find decent solid wheels. At least I couldn't find any. I changed out the original axle and added a stainless threaded rod on which I bolted the wheels. Nothing was modified on the vac itself to mount them, so I can always go back, which I might, because I'm undecided if I keep it this way. But across sandy jobsites, this is better than the plastic wheels it came with. I dunno, I just like to mess around a bit with my tools
  2. Mr. Yellow
    Just like you said. They're not expensive so you can always get a pair of plugs and try it before you convert other tools. Think there should be a general topic dedicated to tool modifications. Sent from somewhere by someone using something.
  3. Mr. Yellow
    Not a fan of flames but I might add an underside exhaust [emoji106] And perhaps I ditch the T-Stak in favor of a racing seat [emoji16] The Neutriks are great. Ofcourse you've already seen them on several mods on the FOG. And then make a plug-it to powercon cable? Sent from somewhere by someone using something.
  4. Mr. Yellow
    So, recently I bought the DWV902M vac (DWV012 in US) and did a little modification and removed the cord. I have the vac rack on there and I didn't like the build in cord wrap. So I cut the cord altogether and added a Neutrik Powercon inlet on the vac and the right plug to the cord. Now I can store the cord together with the hose in the T-Stak case that sits on top. I also thought the wheels could be a bit better... [emoji106] With the front wheels I went from the standard 75x22mm to a whopping 75x40mm [emoji16] (really only needed them to level the vac with the new rear wheels) Next up is to get the floor cleaning set and find a way to store them. Maybe in a T-Stak but I might add something to store the extensions on the back of the vac. Sent from somewhere by someone using something.
  5. Mr. Yellow
    You should team up with PennyRicky
  6. Mr. Yellow
    Yeah, they need to have lockable sections. Might look elsewhere for a kit, but that would still require an adapter and I hate to walk away when DeWALT has a solution, but yeah... choices...options...
  7. Mr. Yellow
    BTW, is there an update coming to the DE7901 floor cleaning kit that incorporates the Airlock system? I'm about to buy this set, but wouldn't mind not using adapters and hook it straight up.
  8. Mr. Yellow
    Well, what do you know..."Sorry, this content isn't available right now". Didn't see that one coming
  9. Mr. Yellow
    If it's any consolation, it will go down the stairs by itself!
  10. Mr. Yellow
    True. It's pricey. Can't argue there.
  11. Mr. Yellow
    But the Toughsystem cart (carrier) is from a whole different level. It's entirely from metal and also doubles as a hand truck. Can't compare it to the T-Stak cart.
  12. Mr. Yellow
    Nice one Matt! We should get a patent before team yellow runs with it [emoji16] Sent from somewhere by someone using something.
  13. Mr. Yellow

    2016 Dewalt

    Mr. Yellow replied to Hugh Jass's topic in Dewalt

    Recips are a pain in general. Don't like 'em. Probably never will. Can't stand the vibration it transfers to your arms. I think they should look into adding AVC in their recip saws. And not in the handle, but between the housing and the reciprocating mechanism. Kinda like they do with their cordless sds drills. Think that could make a difference. Perform&Protect! Sent from somewhere by someone using something.
  14. Mr. Yellow
    They really should have released that kit (DWH050) in the small T-Stak so you can take advantage of it with the vac rack. I'll switch mine to a T-Stak. Unfortunately it means ditching the insert. It even works with the cordless vac [emoji106] Sent from somewhere by someone using something.
  15. Mr. Yellow
    They are not expensive indeed. Good quality. Neutrik is a key player in that area from what I know. It's a great conversion for tools that are (mainly) used with the vac, like a tracksaw or router. I've thought about it before, but I didn't had a vac then. Might consider doing it with my tracksaw and then customize a hose with a lead and a wraparound sleeve.
  16. Mr. Yellow
    Here's some more info about people doing the same with these plugs... http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/why-again-are-plug-it-110v-convos-naina! meanwhile in Russia... http://www.mastercity.ru/forums/instrumenty-i-silovoe-oborudovanie/elektroinstrumenty/t211664-modernizaciya-elektroinstrumenta-izbavlyaemsya-ot-lishnih-provodov/?page=5
  17. Mr. Yellow
    That's where I buy them from. But any shop specialized in audio/lighting equipment should have them. They are widely used in that area.
  18. Mr. Yellow
    They do male/female connectors, inlet/outlet connectors and some accessories. http://www.neutrik.com/en/industrial/powercon/powercon/powercon-true1/ If you go this route, it's best to stick with these. I read that a lot of those (in general) powercons cannot be connected/disconnected under load/live whereas with the True1 stuff you can. And it's IP65 rated as well. Aaaand it's yellow!
  19. Mr. Yellow
    You use them also? I came across them last year or so when I found out about some guy modifying his Mafell tools with these Neutrik True1 plugs. Something similar to Festool's Plug-it system. And they are the perfect color also. Win-win
  20. Mr. Yellow
    What about cutting the cord... If the hose can fit in the T-Stak so can the cord. No more pesky cord wrapping [emoji16] Sent from somewhere by someone using Tapatalk.
  21. Mr. Yellow
    Got the tabs mounted. It works perfectly. Click in place and it's locked. I hadn't opened up the left side earlier, but there is a metal plate behind it. Maybe that's the aerial...? I've highlighted the place where you need to cut a small portion of the rib (also on the right side of the radio) to allow the nut on the inside of the cover to 'sink' into, because the underside of the cover sits flat on those ribs. What I did was first lining everything up; bracket and tab and drill the hole in the cover (with the cover being off) and then put the cover on the radio and drill a tiny bit to mark the place to be cut. Cut it out with some cutting pliers and you're good to go. Easy, cheap and looks like an authentic solution
  22. Mr. Yellow
    @ Locksmithmatt They are great. Think I'll get me a couple more of those DS100's. I like the 1st photo, but the 2nd one is the best I think. Also, because in photo 1, you have to cut the corner from the tab, on the right side to make the holes line up. This gives like 8mm play between the bracket and tab. It's ok, but I rather have it a bit more tight. I don't even know how much play there normally is with the cases, but it ain't much. You need some though. Just take a bracket, put it on the radio and then keep the tab on there and you'll see what I mean Oh, and don't forget to cut off the nipple. It will slide on much easier then and there is no need for it anyway with the tabs mounted.
  23. Mr. Yellow
    So I got my Toughystem organizer in and removed the tabs. I have to get some stainless steel bolts + nuts to attach it to the radio. I did open up one side of the radio. I was afraid I had to open up the whole thing, but you can unscrew the sides very easily. Just loosen the little screws on the sides and you can remove the cover. There isn't anything underneath there, so you can yank a screw right through if you want. See pics below. When placing the tabs upside down you can mount them in 2 ways, like shown in these pictures. This first way, the mounting hole sits up too close to an existing screw that keeps the sideplate in place. You could saw/file one edge from the tab so the holes lines up perfectly and just use a longer screw to mount everything at once. This creates enough play between the bracket and tab. A bit too much I think. Or you can place them like this. You have to drill holes, or just yank a screw in there if you want. This way you have more control over the 'play' when it's locked. And here's a picture from the right side that I opened up. Nothing to be damaged. As for the little electronics on the left side...it seems the handle also functions as the antenna. Nice one And ofcourse the radio deserves top spot in my Toughrack
  24. Mr. Yellow
    It's great isn't it... And for that price. Smart move from team yellow! Sent from somewhere by someone using Tapatalk.
  25. Mr. Yellow
    See here : http://service.dewalt.co.uk/Products/Documents.aspx?ProductID=10577&DocumentID=49895&BOMRegionID=1 You need parts 13 + 14. Those are P910607 + P910608 "catch". This is for UK/EU though. Partnumbers might differ in the US.
×
×
  • Create New...