wingless
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Posts posted by wingless
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3 minutes ago, Altan said:
Thanks, Made in US Proto sockets. I would still like to have them as one piece with 1/4" hex shank. With these I need to use an adapter always. Plus if I need to keep them in DeWALT accessory cases I need to buy one adapter for each
Agreed, SAE, fractional inch square socket ¼" hex shank bits would be handy for US taps.
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Mine is not a set, I have from small to large for square nuts, w/ ¼", 3/8" and ½" drive.
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Thanks for these, but zero use for the US.
The taps available in the US have SAE fractional inch square drives, none have metric square drives.
My current solution is using eight point sockets that fit my ¼" drive tools.
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1 hour ago, Altan said:
1/4" hex shank to square female, adapter for taps in different sizes.
These are cool, but confusing to me.
When I want to do taps w/o the tee handle or the bar tool included w/ the kit, I have eight point sockets w/ either ¼" or 3/8" standard drive. Those fit my taps.
The image shows a M14 laser engraved ID, assuming for the square drive dimension.
Are the ROW taps not having the US fractional inch square drive?
Who is the manufacturer on this tool?
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Welcome to the forum.
Been using the Caterpillar work boots for years.
They have decent wear and are comfortable.
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Our AirBnB has a window w/o cabinet above.
Really tall stuff is unusable w/o a ladder.
Some doors (floor to ceiling) are probably custom.
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Welcome to the forum.
The OMT moves the blade back and forth and will stop the blade at some point on that arc (random or naturally at one point). That stopping point may or may not have the blade straight.
Mine is close enough to straight.
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This topic has all the info on the DeWALT DCN623.
Two vendors are selling both the tool and the full kit, with shipments to happen on either April 15, or one now shows shipments slipped to June 6.
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Momma Nature can make even the most brave super scared. As an example, during my near brush w/ Irma, the peak winds in my area were ~70MPH and that was waaay more than enough for me.
There are solutions for those who really mean: "I don't care what it costs", that will withstand the worst possible conditions. I've seen coastal photos / video of one fully intact house w/ every single other house flattened, followed by an interview w/ the owner, describing the waaay over the top steps to attain that result.
For the rest of humanity, do the best incremental improvements and have layers of a plan.
Understand all aspects of the existing construction to determine the strongest and weakest interior locations. I had several more secure locations identified at my prior house, still determining the best spots at my current house.
From a non-expert these are the most important points, keeping the roof in-place, flood protection, maintaining the integrity of the windows and doors. Then there are all the other "incidentals", like nothing in the yard that will become "missiles", having power, medicine, food, fuel and communications.
Experience w/ both manually placed storm shutter panels and w/ hurricane windows, the windows are waaay easier, especially on multiple story structures, but IMO a steel panel bolted over the glass to a block building provides MUCH more protection (at the expense of time, storage, and maintenance, I'm probably the only one to sand and zinc paint my storm shutters). It is also SUPER dark inside when the shutters are up.
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Welcome to the forum.
My Milwaukee tools define a specific Milwaukee grease for each tool.
My speculation is that any decent / clean automotive wheel bearing grease will be ideal for the application. Enough to provide localized lubrication, not to get everywhere.
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On 3/30/2022 at 11:17 AM, wingless said:
Those Milwaukee / Amazon bits were ordered to include in my arsenal.
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Hmmm, the Craftsman CMCH233B SDS Plus V20 manual doesn't say anything about greasing the tool shaft.
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4 hours ago, fyrfytr998 said:
Is it recommended to use a lube on SDS bits? I just got an SDS not too long ago.
What is the tool model number?
What does the tool manual instruct?
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Welcome to the forum.
The RTS23T parts manual shows item 17 as the elevating shaft, P/N 089037007042.
Has that part been tried but doesn't work?
Is it a different part that needs replacement?
Can a replacement part be fabricated using something like threaded rod?
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Not mentioned but am sure there is a generator w/ sufficient fuel storage.
Note that the biggest issue to properly protect from is flooding.
Nice list...
When Irma trucked through several years ago I had to suffer through less than an hour of no TV / Internet and was searching for where to file my complaint on the outage, when it suddenly restored.
While I remained on my waterfront property for that storm, I moved my vehicles to an elevated garage, plus sent the wife and her parents inland, out of the storm path (at the decision time). The storm turned, passed over them, not me, leaving them in the dark and stranded w/ the roads closed for days.
Preparation w/ storm windows / doors and EVERYTHING possible stored inside. Hopefully negligent neighbor stuff doesn't projectile through your stuff.
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Welcome to the forum.
It is good to provide enough info so others may be effective providing assistance. In this case a model number for the tool would be very useful. What is the tool model number?
As a guess, here is the Bosch 18V GSB18V-975CN Hammer Drill. That tool has a drill / hammer selector at the top. Is that selector in the correct position?
The tool will spin until pushed into the material, then will also hammer.
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3 hours ago, Altan said:
You would love the sunken bath then
Hopefully they would have designed / installed a remote proportioning mixing valve for the ceiling waterfall shower.
The time lag from twisting the valve at the tub to adjusted temperature drops hitting the body would be unusably excessive.
Also, the water drops exiting the shower head will be cooling on that looong distance from the cathedral ceiling.
It may be the only way for something like this to work is on/off w/ no adjustment at the tub. Just set the output temperature, perhaps using a tankless heater for the best guess setpoint.
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People in those amazing houses certainly don't care about the water / electric bill costs to fill those huge bath tubs.
Too bad they are not also woke (in addition to rich) to care about the waste of resources (clean water and energy) just to plop their body into a tub.
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The open glass door is shown against the wall in front of the toilet, can still see through back to back glass, so not one way.
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The other waaay cool thing is the huge step down shower / tub / (probably spa) instead of a step over tub.
Interesting that the stone wall doesn't go all the way to the ceiling, so how is that toilet / tub drain properly vented?
What is that white cylinder hanging down from the ceiling?
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Struggling to understand why the toilet is surrounded by glass walls.
Beautiful home.
That bathroom would be great for someone w/ the modesty of James King in the Will Ferrell movie Get Hard.
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Interesting bit...
That makes a hole and countersink all in one tool.
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The molded plastic is more durable and easier to clean. Both are fine.
My DeWALT DCS355 OMT included a bag and I wanted a box, so I used Kaisen foam to design a custom case storage. It has been fine for years.
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Unknown tool
in Hand Tools
Posted
Welcome to the forum.
No joy in the Vintage Tool Catalog web site, list by manufacturer (I have 19 manuals / catalogs uploaded).
My speculation is that a bladder could be compressed to force something through the needle and the nearby holes could be obstructed or not to act as a carburetor, instead of using a syringe.