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Can you drill with a DCF620?


khariV

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So a little background is in order here. I recently have gotten a Kreg K5 pocket screw system. I'm just starting to use it on my first big project - built in shelves for my sunroom. Anyway, I've been having a heck of a time getting clean holes in pine. The right side of the holes often have tear out on the edge. Using my M18 drill instead of the M12 helped a little but it's still not really reliably clean.

In my research, I came across a number of posts that said that cordless drills didn't have the RPMs to dill these holes cleanly and that you needed at least 2500 RPMs. Well, I didn't hop on the Fein deal a while ago and I am reluctant to go with a corded drill on principle.

So, I was looking at the DCF620. The specs say that it can do 4400 RPM, which is more than twice what most cordless drills put out. I know the torque won't be there at those speeds, but for shallow pocket holes, I don't think I care really. The speed is what's going to get the job done cleanly. The question in, can you drill with this screwdriver? The Kreg bit had a hex shank, so it's physically possible, but I'm wondering if anyone that has one had tried popping a drill bit in and making some holes.

Good idea? Bad idea? What do you think?

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not sure what is up I use a M12 fuel or my m18 fuel drill all the time regardless of materials I'm drilling into with my kreg jig with no ill effects. is it possible the bit is defective? have you tried a different one?

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I doubt you'l NEED that high RPM. Either use a better drillbit, let it take more time, or just us a completly different drillbit-type. 

 

But for answering your question, I don't think using a drywall screwdriver will be especially good alternative, and a lot of wobble/little power. Not that I have tried though. 

You could buy a high quality battery drill that is geared high, like this festool drill: 

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/festool-pdc-quadrive-cordless-drill.aspx

or

http://www.amazon.com/Festool-PDC18-5-2Ah-564597-Cordless/dp/B00XJS58BG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451330749&sr=1-1&keywords=Festool+PDC18

3800-RPM, and it is designed for use with regular drillbits, and has very little wobble. 

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The drill bit that I'm using is the one that comes with the Kreg jig. I know that you can buy replacement bits, but this one is brand new so I wouldn't have thought that it would be dull already from drilling about 100 holes into pine. The drill I'm using is a M18 2604 so it only spins at 1750 rpm I believe.

Now as far as backing, I don't think that would do any good as the tear out is in the face - the hole doesn't actually go through the board. Here's a quick pic that shows what I'm referring to.

f037b4f52517852479aede747a7d9f4a.jpg

If others have drilled with this class dill without problems, I might try buying another bit before I contemplate a new drill. In any event, I'm pretty sure I'm not quite ready to make the plunge into the Festool pool.

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try a piece of masking tape over the area you are going to drill the pocket hole, then drill the hole it looks like it is poor wood that is the problem not the speed or drill bit.

or

drill in to depth put drill in reverse to remove.

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looking closer to the pic you posted I see why you are getting this and it has nothing to do with dull bits or drill speed, it is you are drilling across the grain, tape will help this and have your drill at full speed when it begins to drill, make sure clamping pressure is tight any movement can increase this as well.....

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Just looked at the model for what the 620 is, I have it, it's a drywall screw gun, drilling probably won't work anyway, you could try but the boys are very tight fitting, need pliers to remove. Also the way these guns work is that the clutch will not engage to spin the bit until pressure is applied, I've never tried it nor would I have think about doing it just because of the way the nose is set up.

Jimbo

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I have that drywall gun too and I would never use it on a Kreg jig. The reason is that when starting out, you want a slow feed rate to avoid tear-out as much as possible. Slow feed rate is impossible with a drywall gun. If you don't push it fast, the clutch will disengage. It's a lose lose no matter how you look at it. The tape idea is a good one. Have you tried an impact? If you push light enough you may just stay at the no or low load rpm which is higher than most drills other than the Festool PDC

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The drill bit that I'm using is the one that comes with the Kreg jig. I know that you can buy replacement bits, but this one is brand new so I wouldn't have thought that it would be dull already from drilling about 100 holes into pine. The drill I'm using is a M18 2604 so it only spins at 1750 rpm I believe.

Now as far as backing, I don't think that would do any good as the tear out is in the face - the hole doesn't actually go through the board. Here's a quick pic that shows what I'm referring to.

f037b4f52517852479aede747a7d9f4a.jpg

If others have drilled with this class dill without problems, I might try buying another bit before I contemplate a new drill. In any event, I'm pretty sure I'm not quite ready to make the plunge into the Festool pool.

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If you havnt already,try going slower into the wood letting the bit cut. Cause you are going in at a steep angle and your bits are sharpened at a 118 degree or half of that on each side of the bit. Also a scrap piece of 1/8th or thinner plywood or t1-11 if you had some scrap already could help. But then you need to take your angle of it going through the scrap into consideration. And the extra depth too. But is no problem after you figure it out after the first time or two. And even make a lip on it to make a patern.

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The drill bit that I'm using is the one that comes with the Kreg jig. I know that you can buy replacement bits, but this one is brand new so I wouldn't have thought that it would be dull already from drilling about 100 holes into pine. The drill I'm using is a M18 2604 so it only spins at 1750 rpm I believe.

Now as far as backing, I don't think that would do any good as the tear out is in the face - the hole doesn't actually go through the board. Here's a quick pic that shows what I'm referring to.

f037b4f52517852479aede747a7d9f4a.jpg

If others have drilled with this class dill without problems, I might try buying another bit before I contemplate a new drill. In any event, I'm pretty sure I'm not quite ready to make the plunge into the Festool pool.

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Also that plywood you are using is easy to have tear out any way. So don't worry your self on it.

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