JerryNY

I got a good deal on these cabinets through a special at HD. I wasn't going to go through HD but they had the lowest price by far. I paid a premium for them to be APC but all the cabs showed up with hardboard backers. I called the store up to complain and they put me in touch with a Kraftmaid rep who tried to explain to my that their hardboard was really a form of plywood and better. This may very well be true but I was told all plywood and expected all plywood so it was a bit disappointing to be honest. The rep said they switched over the backs about a year and half ago which is all fine and good but they should make sure that customers are informed what they changed and maybe call it MPC, "Mostly Plywood Construction". I went with white and gray for the island and the paint job does look really good but still kinda disappointed.

Those are nice kits. The reason I went with my kit is it has a corrugated tube with soft seal and trim plates with seals as well which is nice to keep it tight on an outside wall and let's the wires easily navigate the tube from one end of the other. Insulation in the wall would have made fishing wires a pain in the future if I wanted to add some other cables.

Looks really nice. I decided to go with an IKEA besta unit as a wall mounted console below the tv. The power and AV cables are going to be hidden In the central compartment which will have a smoked glass door.

It's a smart tv so it has built in Internet and YouTube so I can watch TIA in 4K OLED splendor, well if Dan actually shoots in 4K I could watch Periscope from the Web browser too

No not long. The hardest part of the mount was just getting the stud mapped out. I test drilled with tiny bits to get the dead center of the stud so the lags would be driven right in the middle. Once one lag was put in the top center which I initially left loose so I could mark the four corners for the snap toggles and swing the mount out of the way to drill the 1/2" holes and put the toggles in. Then I swung the mount back in place and tighten up all he toggle screws and lags. The wall wiring kit was pretty simple and took maybe 20 minutes, half that entire time was just putting plastic down to capture drywall dust and clean up... I hate drywall dust almost as much as brick dust lol. The kit having everything included is kinda nice and the template made it super easy, especially because they stressed in the directions to not drill the hole all the way through until you started the second adjoining hole to make the oval opening, each hole on either side of the in-the-wall conduit requires two overlapping holes making essential a big oval. It's nice too that in the future I can just drop cables down the conduit in the wall.

Yeah, while the LG bracket looks super high quality and engineered better than most mounts I've seen there wasn't much choice because LG used non-VESA spacing on their OLED's for the screw holes so I decided to just stick with the OEM instead of having to deal with adapters etc. I was going to just add a piece of plywood secured to the studs and lag the mount to the plywood but the stud being dead center seemed to just call for lagging it directly to that. It's not going anywhere.

I'm getting a new TV delivered Monday and just got finished getting the new pan-tilt mount installed. The kit called for spanning two studs but that threw off the proportions by not centering it on the wall so I lagged it to a dead-center stud with 2x4" Spax super lags and a couple of 3" Spax cab screws and did all four corners with Hilti toggles for good measure. The drywall is 2x1/2" for some reason in this crazy old house too The 65" I'm getting is only 46 lbs so I think all that should be more than enough for 4 of these panels. I'm also doing a floating TV console below the TV and don't want any visible cords so I put in an in-the-wall wiring kit that runs what's essentially a romex extension cord and conduit for the AV cables to go through the the wall: It's a pretty cool kit, it even includes a hole saw, fish rod and templates to make it super simple. I scoffed at the cheapo hole saw but turns out with my vast collection of hole saws I didn't happen to have the 3" size needed so it saved some $ and a trip to HD. All in all I'm pretty happy with the kit. Super easy to install and it solves the wire and power problem pretty painlessly. It'll be much nicer once the TV goes up but it's nice to have it good to go.

Kinda surprising most of those tools are 12v or less. Then again in an assembly situation prob lots of fasteners into plastic that don't require lots of power etc.

Different strokes for different folks. I can see situations like a guy putting up conduit overhead all day into concrete with an m12 SDS who wants a lighter tool but still some great runtime. The 6.0 pack if real looks identical to the 3 and 4 in size and prob marginally heavier at most. More amps and not much downside wrt to size and weight is a win win in my book. Also there are uses like lanterns and flashlights which never seem to have enough runtime

I hear the criticisms but I see it as entertainment tool porn and his knowledge of how things work is pretty good. He ain't everyone's cup of tea. That being said I've been really curious how the air strike worked inside and appreciated seeing one torn apart with accompanying explanations of what we were looking at. It's worth a view just to see how complex cordless nailers are inside. It seems the Milwaukee version underwent some reduction in component size in that cylinder part because it looks externally much smaller...

He started out the video kinda trashing the quality, and the trigger switch does look cheap and Ryobi cut some corners, but in the end he seems impressed with all that's going on in there with some nice parts etc...

Oh yeah I meant 15g. Probably wouldn't make sense being the only 16g angled, nails would be hard to come by.

Wow, we looking at an18g Brad and 16g angled finisher? Both look more compact than any other battery powered nailer and getting close to pneumatics external dimensions...

I think they tried to lower the center of gravity and make the head smaller for tighter spaces but it looks awkward instead. Can't blame them too much for trying something different. You win some and lose some I guess.

Yeah it is uber cool. I can't tell you how many times I grabbed my Dremel when I should have grabbed my m18 Fuel grinder because I thought it was too small a job to break out the big boy and subsequently regretted the decision because the Dremel while a fantastic tool for smaller things took too long and made it a chore for a medium sized job. That 12v grinder packaging looks like a great 'tweener for when you have a tight spot but still want to do a decent cut on something.

I didn't see a link to any article but PM did a thing on the wooden Falcon in the OP: http://www.popularmechanics.com/culture/movies/news/a19249/stunning-millennium-falcon-model-made-from-3000-pieces-of-wood/

Yeah it seems like lots of appliances have handles now that are designed to be low profile and blend in but on an oven I think they should be more heavy duty and robust looking.

Yeah, both. The microwave has a heating coil in the top like a normal oven and comes with special pans and a raised rack.

Yeah it seems really well built with some nice details. The microwave is stainless inside, so it's a nicer look than many plasticy ones: and being a combo with the oven it's way deeper than many standalone ones I think: The inside of the oven is a nice blue porcelain finish which looks cool with heavy racks with cutouts for hand holds so it should be easy to pull with a oven mit on: The oven door must weigh 40lbs alone and I almost dropped it when taking it off to install the oven to lighten it, probably all the glass adds weight because the window takes up almost all the door for a good view inside. The handles seem really heavy with cool red anodized medallions on the sides, you can buy silver or black replacements if you want. The handle bars have a knurled finish on them too which is a nice touch.

I used only 2 leds on a 5Ah battery. The diamond wheel I used goes through brick and stone ridiculously easy, much easier than a good metal wheel cuts through steel. You can cut an inch deep groove down the length of a brick in about 5 seconds flat. All I did was clean up and widen it about 1/2" on the right side. The older oven was a 27" as well but it looks way smaller internal volume and was maybe 1/2" narrower in the rear box part.

Just an update: after building a plastic "clean room" around the area I broke out my fuel grinder and diamond cutting wheel and widened the opening a bit and didn't make too bad a mess throughout the place in the process with that insidious brick dust. My grinder looks like it's a terra cotta reproduction of a fuel grinder though lol. Can't believe how thick the brick dust was. The oven is a little more proud than I'd like so I have to build a finished frame around it to clean up appearances but having a twin convection oven (microwave on top to boot) saves so much space elsewhere it is worth it. That and the fact that they originally ran 220v 40amp service for the old dual wall oven just made sense to keep the oven there. They ran what looks like 8ga copper, each of the three conductor wires is thicker than a pencil... This new sucker is rated at 7.8 kW with convection on both ovens and microwave etc. All in I'm happy and it's a fantastic looking oven with nice controls. It's a heavy sucker too, I had to removed the 40lb lower door and build a platform in increments to get it up the 20 inches for the opening. It must be close to 200lbs complete. I grabbed it on sale last month for nearly $1k off. Great deal for a great oven... Well two ovens...

I wonder how long the 9Ah m18 battery would power the hoodie? The problem is if it would fit in the battery pocket though, "is that a 9Ah battery in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?"

Yeah the fuel m12 5-3/8 circular saw could go all day cutting sheet stock....

Pretty cool but then again the current one used by the studio is a compete full scale plywood set piece, the original partial set was allowed to rot outside. Some guy has a project going to build a 1:1 model... http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/118341-star-wars-fans-life-size-millenium-falcon

It doesn't look any bigger than the 4.0 or XC packs right? Could have went with higher capacity cells I guess...