JerryNY

I don't have all that many m12's but I do love the original hackzall and the copper tubing cutter is great for tight spaces...

I haven't come across a porter cable pin nailer. I've seen their Brad and crown nailers but not the pin. Link?

Be awesome for flashlights and vacs. Never have enough runtime on those things too....

Ouchie! A real mean would have just grabbed the burnzomatic and cauterized it Jk, and good work on the diy stitches but I'd still have it looked at. Your thumb is half your hand...

Welcome from up in Westchester!

Milwaukee has had a 8.5" miter in Europe for a while now and metabo just introduced one as well. Both are brushed so I could see a m18 fuel 10" be on the way. In kinda surprised Makita didn't go 10", they have the bones to push it with 36v and brushless...

Interesting concept but the idea of leaving an annoying pump on all the time or your work drops to the floor and that it'll only work on super smooth surfaces makes me wonder if it's only useful for finish work. They make nice tools for sure and I can see a subset of wood workers that this would work for though.

Nice video. My HD's don't seem to have the gloves yet dang it..

Looks really nice. It's amazing how much power they can squeeze in smaller and smaller packaging these days. I look forward to hearing more about it.

Yeah what a mess to clean up. My M18 vac got quite the workout and I sealed up the flues and built a new level platform for the new oven which just got here this AM. The new oven ready to go in. This sucker is way heavier than the old one too...

You had to go there..... I was just in the garage and the snow Joe hasn't had a battery in it for a week and it still lights up the LED's for a few seconds and then fades. Give it a little time and it does it again...

Yeah super glad the furnaces are gas, not that they can't be dangerous wrt carbon dioxide but they are safer than oil etc.

Others can chime in on the necessity but basically a clear spray paint to coat the metal, you could even do a satin spray. All it would be for would be to protect the surface so moisture, and potential bodily fluids from actually touching the metal. Looks what happens to metal baseboard or metal grates near toilets over the long run.

In one of many projects in my 100y/o Victorian I'm replacing a double wall oven from the 60's: It's actually in amazingly good shape, I think the bottom oven was never used and everything works on it. There looks like there used to be a giant kitchen hearth and they bricked the opening up and made it work for the wall oven half a century ago so I figured I might use the spot for a modern wall oven/microwave combo and save space elsewhere in the kitchen. Well I'm supposed to get the new oven this week and pulled out the old oven: Surprise surprise they never bothered to close the flues off!!! The house looks like it has two main flues, one combining a fireplace that backs to the one shown in the kitchen and I can see up inside that that one joins up right above this opening and goes straight up to the roof where you can see all the way up to what looks like some kind of metal cap: There is another one in the back : You can see the terra cotta flue that comes from the furnaces in the basement on the back right behind the junction box: I can feel air, see cobwebs billowing and even hear the outside up in the hole so there is air flow so I'm wondering if I should just stuff it all up with rock wool in bags to seal them up or what? Also I'm mildly concerned about carbon monoxide infiltration, enough that I ran over to HD to get a new Kiddie CO detector, which is still on zero thank god. I guess maybe I'm over reacting because the old oven was there for 50 years and no one had issues and it wasn't even tightly sealed to the opening.

Yeah the photo of the drill shows a name plate with info on it that might be helpful. Just be careful if you cobble together something that works, spinning blades are already dangerous enough on purpose-built machines, home brew rigs of disparate parts are altogether more dangerous.

Looking around the web for that model number shows what looks like a really really old hitachi drill hooked up. http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/x421605185 Kinda an interesting little box, looks like jig saw, grinder and planer attachments were made for it.

Thanks for the channel idea, I hadn't seen those before, and its a good point about the reflection of all those point sources. Yeah I'm a huge LED color light snob from years of marine reef aquariums with start of the art LED's too lol. I'm not sure what you mean by " Low voltage cut in rings for switches and dimmer" though. My thinking is to possibly run a wire from the light switch gang by the door to the top of the cabinet and install a receptacle controlled by a newly installed light switch. That way in the future I could always swap out any light system and just plug it in. The outlet would be hidden from view by the crown on the cabinet. I also have light cove coming for the cabs so I don't have to worry about the channels being visible. I already have the cans all done in the ceiling. I put in 10 mini cans and used 8W soft white GU10 LED's which look very close to a halogen 50w, they even are dimmable. It's amazing how bright they are and still use so little energy. The rest of the kitchen's pendants and fixtures use Edison style 8w LED's with the exposed filaments which look old fashioned but are LED's. All in I think I'm at 120w while the incandescent equivalent for my medium sized kitchen would prob be close to 1kW.

Yeah those strips look simple and effective.

Yeah that makes sense. I'm thinking where to mount the transformer and if I should put a switch with the 120v lights by the entrance so the control looks like any other light.

Nice, brings back memories. If only I knew as a kid to polish my axles I would have done better than 3rd damn it! Nice jobs on the cars, I particularly loved the camo pickup and flag draped gunner car.

I don't know but I think comp56 should have his own project forum. I don't know where he gets all the time; red miter benches, red tool boxes, magnetic tool holders, rings and on an on

LOL, yeah there is something inherently spooky about an electrical device still running without a battery installed.

it will actually hold it for much longer than that and it uses 3x1W Led's I think so if it is the capacitors they do seem to hold some decent charge. I do wonder if the windings in a brushless motor can actually store some electricity, they are isolated and no brushes to leak the current out when off.

I don't think so, seems kinda more a bug than a feature. It only stays on max 5-6 seconds. You can wait a little and it can work a little more but not for very long.

Kinda a non-obvious choice to go with corrugated metal but I like it. You might want to clear coat it so it doesn't start to rust even if it is galvanized. Bathrooms are a harsh environment.