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JerryNY

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Everything posted by JerryNY

  1. Long term storage is best at 50% because lithium ion battery cells are most stable at that level, it's also why they ship from the manufacturer that way. How much will it help in longevity and max charge/discharge cycles? I don't know...maybe a little. The big things are to not let them freeze, cold isn't harmful permanently but will reduce output while cold, or overheat too much but the worst thing by far is to always drain to zero before recharging. This is especially bad in tool type batteries with many cells run in series and or parallel because if one of the cells is out of spec and weaker it might drop to too low a voltage for the charger to deem it viable and essentially take all the other good cells with it. It only takes one weak cell to ruin a whole pack. Also never leave a battery on the tool for 6+ months unused and then pull the trigger. The battery might have naturally discharged over time and powering up the tool might be enough to kill a cell and take the whole pack with it.
  2. I figured I'd start the ball rolling, albeit only a $1 as my PayPal account needs to be topped off so I'll try to bump it later, but Dan and Eric put up a Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/toolsinaction . For those that don't know Patreon is a site where you can pledge some support for content creators, artitsts etc. or otherwise. I've never used it before but seen others use it like AVE to raise funds for projects etc. check it out. I lost my father a few weeks ago who taught me all the basics of DIY and for some reason TIA and its Perisope are one of the few things that puts a smile on my face as of late so it's nice to have an avenue to give back. -Jerry
  3. The regular m12 Hackzall is a handy little tool that works great in tight spaces, I love mine, but I think the m12 fuel Hackzall is the best all around combo of compact size, utility and power. The m18 is handy too but definitely more bulky and if you're needing bigger a full sized sawzall might be in order. I think the best combo would be a fuel m12 Hackzall and a full sized sawzall for the big stuff...
  4. I personally wouldn't buy the Milwaukee miter because it ain't cheap and hasn't been updated in ages but I don't see how exactly it's a joke either. It is HEAVY but seems well built. I had a sub who brought one out to my house and it seemed pretty nice actually. I'm just more interested to see what the new m18 one will bring...
  5. Same identical F150 Milwaukee paint/sticker job I saw at a local HD here in NY so they prob do some kind of fleet deal with Ford.
  6. Yeah they are impressive, even for use as a mini sheet metal brake when you need to reflatten some metal the parallel closing jaws just work so well in so many varied scenarios I love those things. All Knipex are top notch build quality and thoughtful design but you gotta expect to pay more for this quality. You can pry my Knipex pliers wrench out of my cold dead Knipex pliers wrench, I'm betting you can't though they lock on too tight
  7. Don't mention miters! I'm needing one and if only hoping Milwaukee can make up its mind and announce something so I can make a decision about wether or not to go DeWalt for a saw, AC powered - the 20v one is super nice but I'm in need of cutting some bigger base and crown and it's too small. I get the frustration about wasting resources but in reality the electronics division probably is exposing some of the functionality from tools and API's they use for development of their own settings so the functionality was already there to begin with they are just providing a mechanism and interface for yeh end user to play with it. DeWalt was shown to actually program firmware through the battery connectors on the bottom of the tool after assembly so even their BT battery system can potentially so more than meets the eye. A lot of this stuff is already in the tools they are just exposing the control to he user so it's not like over the long haul it's really draining resources from new tool. Also all the tools share the same battery tech so the singular One Key app will form an umbrella over potentially dozens of tools making them all more versatile. What make me shake my head more than trying to push technology in an increasing tech driven world is something like the new m18 fan. The cheapo ryobi is way better and cheaper with the ability to even be run off of an extension cord! Why did Milwaukee make the worst fan, a relatively simple device, of all its sister companies ?
  8. Well if your competitor is a super duper haxor I'd check your bank account and client records first but if your competitor was a computer geek of the highest order why would he be in construction again? I don't know about One Key. The geek in me likes it and it does seem to have real potential compared to DeWalt's BT battery tech. From a DIYer perspective it would be a cool new gadget but with limited value. As it stands today it seems really geared to heavy commercial usage where precise repetitive actions are needed. The premium price over the regular fuel is both good and bad. Bad in that it won't become ubiquitous and have interesting uses discovered by a larger pool of end users sharing experiences and settings. The good is you have a choice if you want to buy into it or not. Fuel tools are already expensive so I can see why they didn't make One Key standard. Overall I think it's a cool step forward and people are naive if they don't think all things are headed this way.
  9. I can't wait to see what Melisandre has in store for everyone at Castle Black...o wait that's the wrong team red...
  10. So silly. Why not just use a sharp needle? One quick thrust and done. There's a reason drills are preferred by torturers, it just draws the pain out...
  11. She looks like she would be brushless model. Anyone who claims they don't prefer brushless is a liar! I don't think I've ever been jealous of a big block of cheese before...
  12. They did have those special buy tags on them in the store and online. I'm not sure how much BS "special buy" really is but one of the reasons I bought mine was I wasn't sure about the future availability and or price. That and the fact that the boxes seemed too good to be true at those original price points.
  13. So much is really personal preference and what specific tools you need. Just drills and drivers it probably isn't a huge difference one brand or the other. Miter saws? DeWalt has the advantage with a nice range. Trade tools? Milwaukee has the advantage with tubing cutters, hole hawgs etc. You want the best reciprocating saw? Milwaukee's Sawzall is tough to beat. Milwaukee has the better five year warranty but DeWalt has the price advantage in many tools. You're the best judge of what's right for you.
  14. JerryNY

    Grinder

    Unless you're sure your model can use 5" I would stick with 4.5". The upside is 5" wheels are much less common. You can find anything everywhere for 4.5", not so much 5".
  15. Yup, not s plumber here but I have an old house and lots of tight spots where a manual tubing cutters would have been a pain and I didn't want to vibrate the pipe with a sawzall potentially disturbing old things and the M12 tubing cutter works great. It's especially nice if using sharkbites because it leaves a nice smooth burr free edge. I'd echo what mobiledynamics wrote above that there is a small learning curve to acclimate to how the tool works. I'd just get a piece of copper and practice cutting a few cuts before making any critical cuts for real.
  16. BL right now has to be more expensive by virtue of the electronics packages with the controllers etc. but as they become commoditized that won't be much of a consideration moving foward and the price difference will essentially melt away. BL runs cooler because there's less friction and subsequent heat generated from the contact. That's energy wasted in heat which on battery powered devices is important. Also the magnet position on a BL motor allows for better heat dissipation over a brushed motor so what heat is produced is actually more efficiently removed from the tool too. Heat is is a killer. I know firsthand that using a brushed drill for hard work over extended periods of time will kill It and make a tool almost impossible to hold comfortably whereas a BL tool stays much cooler and runs longer. BL also can be made smaller or more powerful in the same sizes. With that all being said the added electronics in the BL motors opens up possibilities that heretofore would have been difficult or impossible on brushed motors without themselves having to incur the same added costs of electronics the BL require. Maybe controlling rpm or torque curves or tuning a motor by the end user for maximum battery life etc. Maybe Milwaukee's One Key to be announced has things like this in store for us to take advantage of the controllers in these tools or at last ones to be released in the future.
  17. Lol, I wasn't even thinking veneer but looking in the holes and the sides it "looks" mahogany all the way through and I can't detect any seams where a veneer would be indicative. Time will tell. It looks nice for now...
  18. Yeah they even had a brass plate in the middle of what used to be the dining room floor for an electric button to ring the servants. In the walls I found the old batteries from some electrics company in Coney Island for the button I think and a transformer from Edison that looked to be added later and the knob and tubes elsewhere, long since disconnected thank god, were fun to look at too. They must have been very early electricity adopters lol.
  19. I almost forgot to mention they are insanely easy to remove. Just unscrew the 4 on the front back plates and the whole assembly slides right out, knobs and all. The doors don't have holes, they are notched with a rectangular cutout they fit into. It takes less time to take them off than it would be to cut in around them or tape them. Of course just painting over the whole thing is still easier, but a crime alas.The inner workings were a little more involved and a bit of a pain but after three or four I got pretty good at assembly.
  20. Yeah I've done like 14 of them and they all look amazing. The house must have been owned by wealthy people at the time because they even vary in finish. The 3rd floor ones had a more coppery finish, the second were polished brass and the bathroom doors had polished brass outside in the hall and nickel plated inside the bathroom. They, along with the hinges, weight at least 4-5x's their modern equivalent.
  21. Yeah, they built stuff crazy well years ago. Most of the original interior doors on the 2nd and 3rd floors have the original 100 y/o 5 panel oak doors and trim in 5" oak which was painted unfortunately along with all the massive brass hardware. The good thing was the painted brass apparently preserved it so after taking all the iron working bits apart and putting the brass in a crockpot and some detergent I got this:
  22. Yeah that's what I was thinking too. I like the real wood even though the fiberglass have better insulation values and less maintenance.
  23. I saw a very nice real mahogany door on sale and read the fine print where it states the warranty is void if you don't have the door protected with an overhang of something like 1/2 the height of the door i.e. 80 inch door requires 40 inch overhang to protect from exposure to the elements. I have probably about 1/2 that overhang on my front door which faces West. My question is how much is this CYA warranty games so they can avoid warranty claims and how much is it that the door will become ruined. It's a dark stained mahogany color with clear poly on top. I really don't see a problem with it and I know unlike the fiberglass doors, some of which are amazing realistic wood grain to be honest, it will need to be re-pollyed at some point but it's such a nice door that's the breaks. I figure all I have is a 100 year old door with 30 layers of paint on it now so a poly covered door has to be better than that...
  24. Of all people to get a DeWalt with a crooked chuck...Oy.... AVE is pretty entertaining and knows quite a bit from the mechanicals to electronics etc.
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