JMG

Some of the Makita clearance items do stack with the $25 off though, and is automatically added in the cart.

Makita isn't on the list of brands on the sale page and two attempts with different Makita clearance items failed to apply the discount in the cart, so its a good bet the answer is no.

After reading the details of the clearance sale discount, I believe that it is currently broken, as it states that it is not supposed to stack and also should only work once. I have used it more than once and it has stacked with other discounts, including the Makita $25 off holiday sale. Someone screwed the pooch on that one.

CPO http://www.cpooutlets.com/ is giving 11% off of orders over $100 for three days. This coupon stacks with the 30% off clearance items making some of those some real screaming deals. I just ordered a Metabo 6" cordless grinder kit for $224 and change. It also seems to stack with the Metabo metal10 coupon on top of that, but since I had already used that one on another order, I could not verify this for certain. It does apply in the cart though, making it a good bet that it does. Both the metal10 and vetsday11 coupons are limited to one use per customer.

Nothing like a push from Mother Nature to get the ball rolling.

One could wish for it to be like a new house.@Jronman But fifty years of neglect is a tough obstacle to clear completely, and I will be happy if it is a comfortable living space when all projects are complete. As you work on an old house, and attempt to correct issues created by others, the house starts to tell you its story. Working in the crawl space yesterday, I found that the house was originally covered in a red cedar lap siding. At some point someone decided to whitewash this, and then later the house was wrapped in a layer of tar paper and re-covered with the old cement board shingle type siding. I don't even want to think about whether or not that it was the asbestos laced material. After the addition with the crawl space was added on the back end, the house was covered over again with aluminum siding, which is how it sits today. So, the main section of this house has three layers of siding on it. Sort of like the old shingle roof on the garage that has four layers on it. I am glad that the materials that have been covered up are not prone to dry rot, and will only have to make surface repairs to the current flavor. Unlike the garage which is a separate structure and is going to require quite a bit a exterior work to correct some of its issues, where the materials covered up have rotted away, leaving minimal adhesion of the siding in places.

If you think about it though, the majority of Dewalt owners will be invested in the 20max line, and Flexvolt owners will be in the minority. Not to mention that you might be able to mount flexvolt batteries on this unit. From a marketing view, I would produce this unit first as well.

Voted as well.

Heh, all of my belt sander cords have damage of some type from sanding belts. I can't count the number of times, over the years, this also gouged the material being sanded along with the cord.

It might be, but after watching part of the video, I noticed that they are basing their design on chains to support the main unit. My personal experience with CNC and chain drive systems is that they do not maintain accuracy for very long and can be a constant maintenance nightmare with calibration and other issues. I do applaud their enthusiasm and their reasoning though.

So I guess that means you are heading over to Starbucks then, eh?

Would much rather see a Milwaukee variety at this point. But this is one tool that I have been waiting years for. Ever since being a part of a focus group at the IWF about eight years ago.

I got mine applied to two tools and just received an email that the order shipped... But they only shipped one of two, billed me for the entire order and show the other as out of stock (clearance item). So I get to find out how messed up they might be about billing and shipping and discounts.

Prayers away... Man that's rough.

Looks like you forgot to apply your metal10 coupon on that order...

They also have the new brushless recip at a reduced price as well; Item Unit Price Qty. Cost X Makita XRJ05Z 18V LXT Reciprocating Saw "Brushless" (Tool Only) $179.00 $179.00 Subtotal: $179.00 Shipping & Handling: $0.00 Tax: $0.00 25.00 savings: -$25.00 Total: $154.00

Tools Plus has the XCU02Z on sale at the moment and it also qualifies for the $25 off promotion. Shopping Cart Item Unit Price Qty. Cost X Makita XCU02Z 18 Volt X2 36v LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw Tool Only $179.00 $179.00 Subtotal: $179.00 Shipping & Handling: $0.00 Tax: $0.00 25.00 savings: -$25.00 Total: $154.00

I was under the impression that Dan and Eric had removed the upload limit awhile back.

In the last few days I have been uploading some pictures from my iPhone, and have found that only the ones taken in horizontal mode will load properly. Any picture taken in vertical mode fails to post after they complete the data transfer to the forums. I have not tried to adjust the pictures in any way, other than to download them from my phone to my laptop and then attempt to upload them again, with the same results. File sizes are all similar and have no bearing on success or failure as well.

In order to work my way back towards the start of this house project, I need to move some existing wiring, most of which needs a complete update and replacement. Ninety percent of the house was on one single circuit and this included the basement lighting as well as the furnace. Last week I ran some of the new can lights, and a good part of today was spent running a circuit to a new service disconnect for the new furnace location, along with a temporary feed to its current spot. One day last week was also spent moving the main gas feed to clear a jumble of unnecessary fittings as well as to allow some access for new joists. Part of another day was spent adding a ground rod and wire to remove the older connection that had been grounded to the water pipes, which at some point had been tied into a new plastic main feed... (not that grounding electricity to water pipes was a good idea in the first place). After getting the furnace set up on its own circuit, I backtracked the old wire to see if by chance it could be easily disconnected... I think that I will leave this for another day.

I probably should have expanded my post a bit and covered other process' that I use in shop, but the longer a post is, the faster one loses an audience. When I take a batch of lumber into the shop, I process it in a manner to minimize any work down stream. The process specifically attempts to avoid the use of a jointer when dealing with full length material. The material is surfaced to a rough thickness, and then it is straight lined and ripped to maximum width to create an s4s condition. At this point, it is considered prepped for shop use and racked. This process has limited my use of a jointer and largely lowered the priority for that particular tool in shop use. It has not eliminated the jointer from the shop, but along with other techniques/jigs has turned it in to a minimal use tool. I have substituted table saw jigs in many instances for squaring up smaller pieces, and I keep a selection of lever clamps in my kit to use for one off jigs and such. I should probably note that very early in my woodworking career, I experienced a serious accident while using an old jointer and I am lucky to still have all of my digits and use of hand after what happened back then. This never stopped me from using the tool, but it did make me question if there are better processes for handling both small and large parts. Table saw slide jigs, in my opinion, are much safer for repetitive operations and can achieve good square edges with less overall effort when producing multiples. If you are fine tuning a single item, then the jointer maintains it's place in line for speed, but generally, for me, the part would be less than thirty inches in length in those cases. As for rabbets and what not, the router has replaced any jointer use that was once considered during my early years. I have worked professionally in my own small wood shop, as well as medium size shops, and also in a production facility that peaked at ten million a year in production capacity, during my woodworking career. My statement in all of this is that the jointer does not have to be a high priority tool for those just starting out in the field. At some point in time, you will own one, but when you are limited in space and budget, there are other methods that can minimize the need for one.

Personally, I do not consider a jointer a high priority item in the modern small wood shop. It is a tool left over from outdated processes of shop practice that can be avoided in the small shop by either having your lumber straight line ripped before delivery, or using a track saw to do so yourself. I keep a small light weight jointer for when a hand plane isn't practical, or it is the only tool for the job at hand, but the days of owning a large heavy unit in a small shop environment are long gone for me. Medium size shops will often invest in a chain drive saw to handle the process of straightening edges that jointers once performed, as it is so much quicker and safer than attempting to pass long heavy boards over a set of spinning blades by hand. My shop in Florida had a vertical panel saw with a twelve foot rip capacity, and handled all of my needs for edging my lumber. The last production shop I worked in had a twelve inch jointer in house, but it was generally used for working out warped surfaces instead of being used to straighten edges, but most of the time it sat idle, taking up valuable space. I have used the light weight Porter Cable jointer I own more on job sites than I have ever used it inside the shop, and I sold the eight inch production unit I had been hauling around several years ago and do not miss it one bit. As I begin to set up my shop again after the house repairs, I will be investing in tracks and other tooling that can be easily stored away when not in use over tools that eat floor space and rarely see any other use than a flat surface to lay your hand tools on.

I have had a couple of my dream cars in my life to date... They turned out to be nightmares in disguise. So I would have to think for awhile before picking something else to dream about.

A couple of relatively inexpensive woods to start out with are poplar and soft maple. Either one of them can be stained or finished in solid color. They both can be worked easily and are forgiving of mistakes to a certain degree. A step up from that would be cherry. It is an excellent furniture material and looks great in a clear finish that will darken nicely with age. Oak is a more temperamental material prone to movement and care needs to be taken to allow for more clearance than some of the other hardwoods. This can be limited by using quarter sawn material and looking for old growth timber to use in your projects. A good source of information for technique and also ideas for projects is the Taunton Press and their magazine Fine Woodworking.

Makita is not included in that sale.