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M18 Hawg chucks: keyed vs quik-lok


Bremon

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Hey crew, I keep browsing prices on the M18 hole hawgs and super hawgs waiting for an excuse and a good deal to pull the trigger on but I keep waffling on the chuck options. The 1/2" keyed is tried and true, but the key seems like another thing to lose. The quik-lok chuck seems very simple and convenient, and 7/16" bits seem fairly prevalent. What am I missing here? Is the 1/2" for the old timers to stick with what they're used to? Are there applications where the 7/16 connection won't work because the bit is the wrong size? Give me a little Monday night blue collar education TIA lol. 

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Quik-Lok was a no-brainer for me, where 7/16"-shank ship augers are my go-to. Then bought a 7/16"-shank hole saw arbor, and of course all of my extensions are 7/16" also. Most self-feed bits come that way too now, if you're so inclined to use them. Sure, you can't run a twist drill in them, but the Hawgs aren't intended for that, and I've got other things to run 1/4"-shank Daredevils and the like in.

 

The Hawgs are for boring large holes in timber, and most all bit options for that come 7/16" shank nowadays. I can't see any good reason to get one with a keyed chuck. It isn't really about losing the key, it's about speed and convenience for us heavy-users. Couldn't talk my plumber buddy out of the keyed chuck, but then he's an odd duck when it comes to tools, still running 10 yr old DeWalt cordless even though he's got the same tools in M18 Fuel just sitting in his truck. Hoarders should seek help.

 

 

33 minutes ago, Bremon said:

Is the 1/2" for the old timers to stick with what they're used to?

 

 

Pretty much, yes.

 

M18 Super Hawg 5b.jpg

Weapons2.jpg

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What's your intended usage? The Super is quite a bit heavier, and is no fun to use overhead for very long. You can't one-hand it, where the other I do all the time. As Carl has said, the HH can easily handle the larger holes that you'd normally think would need the Super, using TCT-style hole saws - used mine to drill through the sill with a 4-5/8" one just the other day.

 

Even the 2705 will do it:

 

 

 

2705-20 5b.jpg

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Yeah I think that's smart getting a hole hawg with quick lock, I love the idea of the super hawg and the new dewalt stud drill but ever since using carbide tipped hole saws, they(the high torque drills) are useless to me, and no longer see a use for them at all for anyone else, if only people would realize how awesome the carbide hole saws are, compared to self feed chipper bits.

Maybe MAYBE the one use I can think of for using the super hawg with self feed are when you drilling through wood thicker than the hole saw can drill, but that's extremely rare in my case and when I do run into that situation, I grab my hammer and pry bar and chip a section of the core out with a couple taps, then keep drilling....,

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:

Maybe MAYBE the one use I can think of for using the super hawg with self feed are when you drilling through wood thicker than the hole saw can drill, but that's extremely rare

 

That's what I was kind of getting at, that these drills are for a few specific tasks. I could see maybe a GC owning one, maybe. They are too expensive to just collect.

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Yes I agree. Easier to rent w corded Super Hawg for $25-30 for a few random beast holes if you're not making money off of it. Great replies guys. Appreciate the input on hole saws. I've never been much for them because I hate getting the plugs

out but maybe I just take some that aren't trash out for a test drive. 

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4 minutes ago, Bremon said:

Appreciate the input on hole saws. I've never been much for them because I hate getting the plugs

out

 

I absolutely despise standard bi-metal hole saws, and avoid them like the plague. These 3-tooth type - which are usually tungsten carbide tipped, but not always - are a total joy. Lightning fast, and the plug usually falls out. 2 or 3-inch holes are like 3 seconds through 2x framing. And where you're only cutting the kerf, you can get by with a heck of a lot less drill.

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Rough-in holes up to say 1-1/4", Bosch Daredevils work excellent. They self-feed, are pretty quick and most any of the Fuel drills will do them no problem - and if you don't mind the noise, the impacts work great too, just a little slower going. I use the ship augers, because that's what we electrician's have always used. I have plenty of drill for them, they will eat nails, and they will auger the chips out of deeper holes, something the Daredevils won't do. When drilling just single 2x sticks, not an issue, and the Daredevils are cheap enough to just chuck after hitting a nail or two.

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I've used some impacts for drilling holes before and generally wouldn't recommend it without hearing protection lol. The whole hole sounds like the last 1/4" of a deck screw. I've read good things about Bosch drilling solutions, I'll check them out sparky; a bonus is their prices are quite good. 

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With the Bosch daredevil spade bits I've found that the threads on the tip will get destroyed with high speed, powerful drills. I'm not sure about impacts or lower speeds...I wasn't really testing them, just something I noticed. Literally 1.5 holes before the threads were destroyed by my Fuel drill. 

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8 hours ago, BMack37 said:

With the Bosch daredevil spade bits I've found that the threads on the tip will get destroyed with high speed, powerful drills.

 

No issues at all, using them regularly in any of my Fuel pistol-style drills or impacts for a couple of years now.

 

Edit: Just went out and looked, no damage to any of the tips, and some have seen pretty heavy use.

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2 hours ago, BMack37 said:

With the Bosch daredevil spade bits I've found that the threads on the tip will get destroyed with high speed, powerful drills. I'm not sure about impacts or lower speeds...I wasn't really testing them, just something I noticed. Literally 1.5 holes before the threads were destroyed by my Fuel drill. 

Did they stop threading and start slipping at any point? A phillips bit is fine until it starts slipping so the same might apply with self feed spade bits.

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I have the the hole hawg with the chuck. They have a nice spot to clip the key into. I got the chuck because I have a ton of bits of all different sizes. I have put a paddle in it to mix drywall mud with no problems. 

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6 hours ago, jeffmcmillan said:

Did they stop threading and start slipping at any point? A phillips bit is fine until it starts slipping so the same might apply with self feed spade bits.

 

The second hole it slipped instead of cutting. I figured it was gummed up so I immediately stopped, looked and the threads were totally messed up. It looks just like @JimboS1ice bit that he thought he might have damaged using the impact.

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  • 3 months later...
On 8/9/2016 at 9:58 AM, sparky603 said:

 

I absolutely despise standard bi-metal hole saws, and avoid them like the plague. These 3-tooth type - which are usually tungsten carbide tipped, but not always - are a total joy. Lightning fast, and the plug usually falls out. 2 or 3-inch holes are like 3 seconds through 2x framing. And where you're only cutting the kerf, you can get by with a heck of a lot less drill.

@pancing I echo this sentiment just to add on to what I was explaining about the lenox 

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  • 2 years later...
On 8/9/2016 at 2:59 PM, Bremon said:

Hey crew, I keep browsing prices on the M18 hole hawgs and super hawgs waiting for an excuse and a good deal to pull the trigger on but I keep waffling on the chuck options. The 1/2" keyed is tried and true, but the key seems like another thing to lose. The quik-lok chuck seems very simple and convenient, and 7/16" bits seem fairly prevalent. What am I missing here? Is the 1/2" for the old timers to stick with what they're used to? Are there applications where the 7/16 connection won't work because the bit is the wrong size? Give me a little Monday night blue collar education TIA lol. 

I have a keyed hawg and the chuck starts coming loose after about 5 holes go the quick-loc all the way I've now taken to using a short extention and tighting the chuck with a spanner on the end of the key.....

 

Trying to buy the quck-lock as a spare part 

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  • 2 months later...
On 12/4/2019 at 5:59 AM, Duaneco said:

Hey i just received a m18 hole hawg angle drill and im wondering if it can handle 2-9/16 drill bits or do you really need the super hawg?

 

The product page on Milwaukees website should be able to tell you the capacity.

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I have a keyed hawg and the chuck starts coming loose after about 5 holes go the quick-loc all the way I've now taken to using a short extention and tighting the chuck with a spanner on the end of the key.....
 
Trying to buy the quck-lock as a spare part 


The truck with all keyed chucks is get the proper fitting chuck key and turn it as tight as you can but eventually they all wear out and have to be replaced which is inexpensive if you do it yourself. The tricky part is always figuring out how to remove the chuck.
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