olletsocmit Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I thought I would start this thread & keep updating it as I go, I really like seeing other peoples projects from start to finish. I also thought since this is my first time doing this alone, i would ask questions here when i get stuck. I live in a 4 bedroom 3 bath house w/ a 2.5 car garage. Only 2 of the 4 walls have drywall (ones touching the inside of the house) & it has bothered me for a while now (I spend a lot of time in the garage). This was a weird project from the start b/c my walls are not OSB or plywood, they are rare for my area & style of house ... solid gypsum board. Took me a while to learn this, I have a thread about the walls a while back on here about it, you can also see the original pics of the garage there too -- http://bit.ly/2bqYi57 So far, i have used foam and caulk in places that there were holes in the gypsum, around the 2x4's where there were gaps, around the receptacles, and a variety of other places I tough air could come thru. I then found a good deal on some R-13 rolls at HD that were bonus rolls w/ extra in them. I have used 2 rolls so far for this wall. looks like it will take about 1 more to finish this one... I have some questions which i will post in the 2nd post here after the pictures below... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 Yes i know... Not the best looking caulk and sealing jobs, but i thought who cares it works just as good as if i made it look nice for the pics, haha. My questions are the following right now... - Around the receptacles, should I tape around them since its does not look like i did just a great cutting job with the insulation? - Should I tape the seams of any place on the insulation? ...and if so, what kind of tape should i be using? - I just stuffed some extra pink insulation around the windows. Should I be using foam or sealing? - At the bottom of the walls (where the horizontal 2x4 is connected to the concrete) should that be sealed as well? - At the top of the walls, should the also be sealed? - Should i be using rigid anywhere or is it ok to use the paper faced insulation everywhere? - Should i be covering everything with a plastic vapor barrier before i have the drywall or not needed b/c this is paper faced? I want to make sure i do not miss anything big before i have all my drywall in a few days, so if anyone see's things wrong please let me know before its too late, I want honest feedback/help and usually seem to find it on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 Also, before i do any more insulation tonight, See the pic below. there is about 4" of drywall around the top of the walls. I think its there so they could tape the corners at the top when it was put in. Should I rip this out around the top of both the walls or should i just run the new drywall up to it and tape and mud the seam?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Check this out for some insulation help: ... Also I would leave that strip of drywall up and put sheets up to it because it's easier doing that seam versus the wall to ceiling corner. I don't think it's necessary to tape around the receptacles. I would seal at the bottom and top plates tho. Don't put plastic over the insulation batts, read up on that in the link in the other thread. Hope this isn't misleading. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimboS1ice Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Looking good, I like to use spray foam around windows, a little less tedious than cutting bits and pieces 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks guys. Anyone have any good videos or guides that may help me not miss anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 so i know it was not necessary, but i have an extra roll of ramboard tape (brown paper tape). I used it to tape a lot of spots that were not perfect and also where bats met. not sure if it well help, but cant hurt i guess. Nail plates or w/e you call them the metal plates you put on the stud in front of remex... go crazy and put in every single space or just where i may nail 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Guys i also need advice about starting to dry wall! where should i start? haha. left or right, etc? can someone draw a rough layout in paint over this pic or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimboS1ice Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Decide whether your going to hang horizontal or vertical and go from there... I prefer horizontal but I've heard both sides of the coin, I usually work clock wise, and hang the bottom sheet first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 OK so I am making progress and will start to hang drywall in the next two or three days. I still need to decide whether I'm going to lay it vertical or horizontal but my main concern now is what drill to use to hang it. Should I just use my Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill with those drywall bits or would it be better to pick up a dedicated drywall gun? I'm pissed Milwaukee hasn't released their drywall gun yet but I was at Home Depot yesterday and saw this one for 50 bucks get it or just use my fuel drill...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimboS1ice Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Drywall guns make it easier, they have a ridgid collated screw gun too in the nailer aisle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 How high is it to the strip of drywall at the ceiling? If this were my garage, I would hang the drywall however I felt easiest, just do it either way, don't think it shoudl matter, especially in a garage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 On 8/24/2016 at 7:57 PM, olletsocmit said: OK so I am making progress and will start to hang drywall in the next two or three days. I still need to decide whether I'm going to lay it vertical or horizontal but my main concern now is what drill to use to hang it. Should I just use my Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill with those drywall bits or would it be better to pick up a dedicated drywall gun? I'm pissed Milwaukee hasn't released their drywall gun yet but I was at Home Depot yesterday and saw this one for 50 bucks get it or just use my fuel drill...? This would make it night and day easier to hang drywall, not only because it has a dedicated end on it to hold the screws while you steady the drywall with one hand, but it also spins faster than your Fuel drills, making it go so much faster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weird Tolkienish Figure Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I recently had to hang drywall, in one section. I screwed in with my drill about 90% in. Then I went around to each screw and hand tightened to I could get the depth just right without ripping the drywall paper. It seemed to work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 21 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said: How high is it to the strip of drywall at the ceiling? If this were my garage, I would hang the drywall however I felt easiest, just do it either way, don't think it shoudl matter, especially in a garage... Hey whats up Carl, they are 9 foot ceilings with a attic above. I am thinking starting from the left bottom and laying horizontal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 21 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said: This would make it night and day easier to hang drywall, not only because it has a dedicated end on it to hold the screws while you steady the drywall with one hand, but it also spins faster than your Fuel drills, making it go so much faster interesting. I just would hate getting it and really never using again. was hoping there was a nice adaptor for my drills that would work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 OK so I still haven't hung the sheet rock yet I hurt myself but the other issue is I think I'm being OCD about the insulation. There are a few spots and corners Where I basically ripped apart smaller pieces of insulation and stuck them in the crevices. I'm still worried about them not being covered with craft paper. I have a roll of craft paper and tape should anything pink thats showing be covered up with the kraft paper before hanging the drywall. Also there are a few spots where there's two or three 2 x 4 studs that are all connected to each other and aren't even. should they be sanded flatter real quick with grinder or should I just cover the faces with caulk and then screw the sheet rock down...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 There are also a few things like this... the headers above the windows will sit back about 1/2" in. Should I put foam board in that space above the window before I drywall there or is it fine to just have that cavity there. it looks like the headers are doubled up if you look to the right of the header there's a hole and it's about 1 to 2 inches deep should I knock the hose out and fill this big gap with foam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted August 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 Today's progress with one arm I cut a metal band at work and it shot straight in between my tendons so that's my job is she right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimboS1ice Posted August 31, 2016 Report Share Posted August 31, 2016 Less void space the better, hope your arm gets better!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnarlyCarl Posted September 1, 2016 Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Well that blows banana chunks!! Take it easy..I would fill those small holes with foam. I would also fill in the 1/2" space above the window because maybe you want to mount something to that part of the wall later on. Also wouldn't bother making those 2x4s flush with each other, but you could caulk in the seams between the boardsSent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted September 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Less void space the better, hope your arm gets better!Sent from my iPad using TapatalkYea it was not the best cut where the 2 boards met. I was gonna fill in with caulk then tape and mud. I have been leaving a 1/2" at the bottom off the concrete. I was also going to fill that gap with caulk I think and then run molding against the floor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olletsocmit Posted September 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Got 1 more up this morning and another for the right side cut. Time to go to work now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimboS1ice Posted September 1, 2016 Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Yea it was not the best cut where the 2 boards met. I was gonna fill in with caulk then tape and mud. I have been leaving a 1/2" at the bottom off the concrete. I was also going to fill that gap with caulk I think and then run molding against the floor Spray foam works wonders too! 5 bucks for a can JimboSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremon Posted September 1, 2016 Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 I missed this thread so am not in time to give you advice but as a guy who's done more insulation than he cares to, Some general tips: -use can foam around windows and doors. So much easier than batt. -don't bend, fold, or squish batts to fit cavities, that hinders performance and can make them basically useless. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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