jeffmcmillan

Around the whole motor housing. They tend to be shorter and easier to fit in tight spaces.

That trigger looks wonky. Almost like theres space for a finger above the trigger too. Seems like I'm the only one who misses the old style of body grip grinders.

Usually the smoke is enamel insulation on the windings burning which can short windings now or at some later point, but it could also be some crud in the motor with a lower flash point. Especially it being two tools that both still work suggests crud in the motor. No way to tell conslusively but to see if it fails or if you see burns on the motor.

So these blades are an absolute godsend as diablo rightfully points out in some of their demos, but they're also very finicky. I never in my life thought I would be babying a sawzall or blade but I do now and it's totally worth it. The carbide teeth are incredibly prone to chipping and once you chip more than a little bit off of one the adjacent teeth chip pretty quickly too and the entire blade is shot. When you look at sawzall blades they're actually angled forward a bit which means if you run them too fast/without enough pressure the blade bounces in the cut a little and every time it lands the teeth chip a little. That's especially bad when it's a thin workpiece like the frame of a couch and it focuses all that impact on only a couple teeth. The angle thing is great for digging into the cut and counteracts the looseness of sawzall blade holders (otherwise the blade would be angled the other way) and bouncing doesn't damage bimetal blades but it kills carbide. The second worst thing is when you finish a cut and the blade hits something as it falls through. This is why the milwaukee ax wins over diablo carbide in demos where they have to cut a series of free nails because the blade falls from one nail to the next and breaks teeth (see the video below). As far as the couch, I think those are some pretty hard steel because I burnt up a milwaukee torch blade cutting through one. Unfortunately the diablo carbide blades didn't exist yet. I'm glad you brought this up because I've seen a lot of people kill these blades because you just don't expect to put effort into making a smooth cut with a sawzall and most don't even think to try using it differently. I used these to cut stock for a week while both shop bandsaws were broken and it's really hard to explain to people that a sawzall needs to be used as a precision tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dd7fF1jRII You can see why I didn't want to type all this into the instagram box

I've seen the snot beat out of some of those for a decade and never a single chuck fail. Sometimes the bit would jam and you need to impact in reverse to break the bit free but the chuck release mechanism never jammed.

End of the season? pffft. Here it just means you can get by with every other week. Chances are it didn't sell well so they just didn't refill stock. It's even more confusing on Home Depot where they actually stay "discontinued" when in reality they just stopped stocking the product. 20V OPE is unlikely to disappear because it sells well with people who don't need a dedicated OPE line. The large 40V 7.5Ah pack has 30 cells and two 60V packs have 30 cells so I have a feeling there will be 120V OPE. 40V won't be discontinued but neither has the 12V "line"

Except for one the ideal choice is both and for the other it's neither. M18 doesn't have a chance until they release a mains adapter.

Nice. I've seen pictures of an ancient blue one but that must be new.

Testing... this is KnarlyCarl but it says i'm logged in as JeffMcmillan... No this isn't a joke

I open up tia forum to check new posts to find I'm logged in as jeffmcmillan and when I click log out so I can log in as myself it wont let me log out. I get an error. -2448man Hey this is KnarlyCarl, I was actually able to hit edit post and now this is like in some strange hacker dream, Jeff, any security issues pop up on your computer? Just throwing that out there

So, I'm Kato, I know I'm Kato, and I will always be Kato. However, when I visit the site it says I'm "Jeffmcmillan"...which I certainly am not. When I go onto the forum on my phone, it says I'm "Ticoty"...which, again, I certainly am not. What gives, and when ill it be fixed?

The difference is milwaukee aims at a complete line while makita is all over the place and the way milwaukee announces tools early exacerbates that. Plus you know if another brand makes something thats a hit you can just wait a year for the milwaukee version instead of switching platforms. Makita might just decide not to update something for no good reason.

For some reason I thought metric was commonly 20mm not 30mm. Shows what I know.

Im curious what reason Festool marketing gives for making it incompatible with most blades. More precise? Better engagement? Make sure users get the most out of their saw by only using blades optimized to work synergistically with the saw?

The M12 requires an allen key for the blade change and runtime isn't the greatest with 10.8V. Unless you only have M12 tools and batteries you'll be happier with the M18 version.

I was thinking the same thing, but I just can't imagine it being that poorly designed. Battery contacts should always have enough pressure to maintain contact under vibration. Dewalt does tend to have very loose batteries compared to others but that was really flopping around. It's almost like the connection wasn't designed to handle such a large pack. @wildroamer @MikeyB Toolpig did some comparisons of the Fuel, Flexvolt, and Makita on periscope but it was just random tests of a couple pairings on a different materials. I think we all want an Oz Tool Talk review with splitscreen though

Sounds like a bad tool or bs test. The nails are the easiest part on the saw and hardest on the blade.

I've heard of people going completely blind because fumes from solvents fused their contacts. It's incredible how hazardous they can be.

You can have a couple quick set temperatures. I dont remember exactly how though.

Yeah you'll need a smaller head vibrator. Running it down the side can cause breaks in the aggregate trying to avoid the rebar. I'd definitely go with something on the outside of the form. A random orbit sander can work too.

Is at least one side of the form exposed? If so you can take the blade out of a sawzall and run the shoe over the forms since it's only a 5-1/2" think pour. With that 1-1/8" vibrator head I'd be worried about it redistributing or getting stuck on aggregate in such a thin, tall pour.

You can probably file down wherever the collet nut (screw-on cap that presses the collet down) is bottoming out. Engagement of more than a couple threads is usually irrelevant.

Yeah like the people who put a track on their circular saw and a plunge base on their oscillating tool wouldn't put an autofeed attachment on their screw gun. Who can afford a Festool screwgun but not autofeed strips. I have to say it really pisses me off that Festool is the only one with the push-drive/auto-start and an autofeed attachment. Seems like those things are made for each other.

So they got you too did they? Welcome to the club