jeffmcmillan

http://cdn.makita.com/apps/cms/img/xrj/11640fb2-099e-46e3-9ac7-90c5c2066cf4_xrj01z_p_500px.png?width=500&trim.threshold=80&trim.percentpadding=1 It's not the same shape but it has a similar stroke length and one handed design. Pretty much a direct competitor.

I think there are can be issues with bosch glide because its the first saw with that design, but when it works the action is so smooth even if you dont need it in a cramped workshop.

ftfy I never see these deals in the US.

This is from the NPS in Australia. I don't recall seeing it in the US one.

I think the problem with cuts was probably just switching sides. I've made some cuts that look like beavers learned to gnaw through steel when it's an odd angle. It's still BS that you can't move the guard where you want it. I wonder why Makita decided to make that grinder 4-1/2 inch in the US and 5 inch elsewhere when it has more power than the 5 inch Milwaukee.

The shockwave bits are pretty soft steel so they get stuck on par with harbor freight bits. If you get it to impact in reverse that should loosen up the bit.

Based on the torques listed on amazon.co.uk CPD is the 2604 and FPD is the 2704. The 2704 (FPD) is the same or smaller in pretty much every dimension so it should fit in the 2604 (CPD) case but might rattle around a bit. The side handle I recall being a bit longer though so that might not fit.

The dewalt probably gets the plug stuck just because self feed doesn't give time for the chips to clear. You get the same problem with some augers that take longer to pull out of a log than they take to go through it.

I like my toes too much for the second one.

Buying, maybe but you can probably get a motor for free.

But does the motor outperform non-leading competitors too? Or is that in quotes because its the trademarked slogan for their motors? Friggin marketing buzzwords. Next they'll tell me its arsenic free.

You can feather the trigger starting the hole to reduce spalling, but if you don't apply pressure it won't drill a hole. It's that chiseling action that breaks up the masonry so you can drill with it.

I'm in the same boat with Stercorarius. If someone can make a case for this over just resting on a piece of scrap I'm all ears, but I don't think I'd like having to slide it down the board far enough to make a cut.

Most rotary hammers don't engage the hammer unless you put pressure on the bit. Its complicated but doing that reduces wear by a ton. What youre seeing is just normal.

The torque is important for breaking away bolts. The impact energy is important for screws in wood or sheet metal and no one lists that. It's a little bit higher for impulse drivers than impact drivers which is compensated for by fewer impacts per minute do the output power of an impact driver and impulse driver is in the same ballpark. If youre breaking bolts you really need an impact wrench, but for screws the impulse driver is about the same.

The other specs look normal for an impulse driver, but 4000 impacts per minute is really high for an impulse driver. The Makita lists 2700, Ryobi lists 2200, and Ridgid doesn't say so you know it's bad

I think manufacturers go through cycles of compact and refined vs bulky and powerful looking. Its just a matter of showers and growers.

Its some sort of wax lube or helps with vibration damping or something. One time had a dewalt fanboy go rogue and pick up yellow blades instead of red and they had something like that in the slots.

I think they were designing for the same power but the two batteries hold up better under load more like using a compact vs full size battery. I'd expect it to fly through wood if they really designed for the full power of a 36V tool like the new brushless chainsaw.

Had anyone *cough @JimboS1ice noticed not a lot of milwaukee stuff used to be available on amazon but sometime in the last month or so a lot showed up at pretty good prices?

What sizes does it strip reliably? Both are rated for 10-24AWG but I use the irwins for stripping a lot of multiconductor sheathing plus wires down to 30AWG.

The big advantage with a drywall gun is it actually stops the bit when it loses pressure instead of depending on cam out. The adjustable depth helps but that isnt really necessary with a clutch based system because its so precise. Any adapter using a clutch like a drywall gun will work (I cant tell if the bosch version above is one) but say away from the others. I havent used one in years but they definitely exist.

Sounds likely. They did the same thing with the brushless circular saw and TTI does it on a longer time scale with milwaukee.

Theres an electric brake when you release the trigger which is probably what youre hearing but it should sound more like a clank than a screech but it depends how fast you release the trigger. The sparking is probably normal but its worth pulling the back panel to check the brushes. The back panel is separate so its two screws and easy to put back on. I dont know why you'd plan to sell it. Mine is still chugging along nicely.

Actually those two don't count because I have no love for them for other reasons too. Of tools I like, miter saws are probably the worst because it's obnoxious to put on hearing protection for a half second cut, plus the ringing sound some of those blades make after a cut.