jeffmcmillan

Every manufacturer has their weak and strong points. You may see flexvolt as a weak point, but a lot of people see it as an extremely strong point. Far more people are going to buy into the flexvolt line from other brands than are going to quit Dewalt because the 20V line has stagnated a bit. On an unrelated note, last time I checked Dewalt was a bit less expensive than Bosch, Milwaukee, or Makita (in America) comparing apples to apples on individual tools. For some people that adds up to a couple extra tools for the same price and that's worth it even though the line might not always have the latest technology. Don't believe me? Makita had a cordless miter saw half a decade before Dewalt. The catch? When the 20V Dewalt miter saw was released you could get it for half the price of the Makita, and when the Makita version new it cost more than the Flexvolt miter saw now. If you want a steady, logical progression of updates Milwaukee is the only choice because they focus on the market. Dewalt is focused on the market but can't be rushed, and Makita is just making stuff up as it goes along.

Welcome to the forum. I wish collets had a wider range, but that 5% difference is not trivial for fitting something in a collet. That said, if you really tighten it down I'd expect it to grip a 6mm bit passably so the collet is probably shot. Check if the gaps cut into the collet are closing completely and you can file them wider to fit smaller bits if needed. too much and bits will start to wobble though.

Duct tape one of these to your stop block and you're halfway there. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/laser-measuring-glm-15-120449-p/

LOL They're both different kinds of capacitors for us electrical engineers. Isn't it nice when almost every squiggly line has some meaning.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-6-Gal-Vertical-Pancake-Compressor-with-3-Nailers-Combo-Kit-YG63CK/205377898 The prices on a bunch of lower end flooring nailers also dropped around 40-60% online. Edit: Looks like they cleared enough stock and the prices are back up on those.

Here's the conversion done in the machine. It's actually less complicated than it looks ... only two components and under $10 for good ones at low quantity. Don't even need a transformer since the battery is the same voltage as mains.

I think that might be the case but the cordless miter with just an adapter and no batteries is only $50 more than their normal top of the line miter saw. Definitely worth it for a cordless option down the line.

I bet monitoring vibration of the saw could tell when some teeth are damaged pretty easily. Then again you can hear that with some experience. Same experience that tells you to use the riving knife and not shove your hand in the blade.

If my experience is any indication that will never go back right. Wish I could help more.

Not that Ive intentionally checked this before but Ive never had a miter gauge not fit another table saw and never noticed a difference in size. Quite possibly standardized.

Looks like it stalled on that spot and burnt out the commutator.

I posted a video at one point. I'll see if I can find it. Edit here it is: Edit 2: Editing works again.

7-1/4" or 180mm

In the motor that can be the case depending on how it's designed. In the battery each cell has the same load regardless of the total high current or high voltage configuration.

The hydraulic mechanism spreads out the impact energy over a longer time so there's less torque. You can think about it like a punch vs a shove. Both can have the same effect but the shove has a much lower force for longer compared to a punch with quick high force. It's not really about how it's measured as that torque is a bogus spec for impact drivers. It's really only significant for breaking a bolt loose which is why it's significant for impact wrenches, but for impact drivers the impact energy and IPM matter more. Measuring torque of an impact driver is like measuring force of a rotary hammer. Complete bogus. I'll probably make a thread going into more detail on the physics of all this at some point. Speaking of things on HD too early...

I think if the service center doesnt rip you off they get ripped off by the manufacturer. Unfortunately theres always more money to be made illegitimately than legitimately.

I think XDT13 is a different model since it has 3400 RPM, 3600 IPM, and 1500 in-lb while the XDT14 has 3600 RPM, 3800 IPM, and 1550 in-lb. The only place I can find info for the XDT13 is in a kit for sale, no Makita sites. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-2-piece-Combo-Kit-Hammer-Drill-Impact-Driver-4-0Ah-XT269M/207054643 https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT269R-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B01IB4NAEY https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT269M-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B01IB4NALM https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT328M-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B01L8O0CPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473923805&sr=8-1&keywords=xdt13z

That's really strange. I had one stored tip up for at least four years that still worked fine, but they are so finicky that might help. Good to know.

The piece you're looking for is the splinter guard which should be easy to find since they're basically consumables, but find the M18 one gets in the way of seeing the cut and doesn't stop the workpiece splintering at all. Don't worry about the dust. There's not much and it's just drywall not cement dust or anything.

I find it ridiculous in their marketing picture to use a big battery to charge your smaller batteries on the tailgate of a car that could charge them. Especially because with perfect efficiency (lol yeah right) you'd only get ten charges of those 36V batteries in the picture.

If you do get the Makita, make sure it's the model they updated with a tool-free blade change. There are still some of the old version floating around.

Took me watching that video three times to get what the big deal is. Look at 0:35 the hammer is skipping positions. That means more time for it to speed up and a higher energy impact while running at a higher speed. Skipping positions means they can stick more anvils in there to increase power transferred by the mechanism. Now that's a great idea. I'm excited.

Have they made any plain starlock tools yet? Even the Fein 12V is starlock plus. I think the plain starlock is just so they can split basic starlock and basic starlock OIS compatible blades.

No kidding. It came up in another thread that the M18 fuel is 1/4" shorter than the M12 fuel

Wow rereading that I came off as more of an ass than usual. I'm not saying I think it's a bad design choice, just that I'm not sure what else is going on behind those specs to bring out the power. I'm glad to get schooled on the specs of impact drivers since my examples weren't exactly extensive. I still think it's a pretty low RPM for a high end impact though. I wish I could edit that post with more stats. This lack of edit is killing me.