HiltiWpg

The storage stuff looks awesome though, looks like the hit the sweet spot between the Tstak and Tough System! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty disappointing M12 Fuel Gen2 lineup. Barely any change from old version. Same goofy upward pointing nose and the sloped back that doesn't fit your hand quite right when you tighten your grip! [emoji24] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even though I am no longer on any Milwaukee Platform, I feel compelled to put in my $.02 They need to seriously fix the size, weight and balance of most drills and impacts. Everyone else has done it, it's their turn. Unified, interlocking storage would be awesome. Especially if they can find a good fit between a Tough Sytem and a Tstak. Design a better M12 handle that doesn't point up, seriously, how did that seem like a good idea? I don't think Milwaukee needs sub compact 18v, they have an amazing line of 12v, they just need better design and lighter weight. My 18v sub compact makita is way lighter than my old M12 Fuel impact! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Then you are in business! If it costs more, it must be better!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I really like the Bosch core bits and the 3/16 - 1/4 are nice too, but the 4 point Hilti bits literally chew through everything including rebar. I still use Bosch, but for all of my anchor sizes, 3/16 - 5/8 I use only Hilti. Plus, i get the bits warrantied all the time. Nothing like a free brand new bit. Hilti will swap out the bit as long as the little notch is still visible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used one for 3 years. It was so good, it was the only thing stopping me from switching out of the 12V line. I am electrician, I would use that thing to run pipe like a machine. It was quite fast and very reliable. My only advice would be to get proper bits. I was pretty disappointed at first with the M12 Fuel Rotary hammer, then I switched from a DeWalt 3/16 bit to a Bosch and was like a different tool. Smooth and fast. Then I dropped a Hilti 4 point bit in it and never looked back. It ate through everything. Very surprising how much of a difference a bit can make. I have switched out of Milwaukee altogether, but I can honestly saw that little rotary hammer was one of the best compact tools I have ever used. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am an electrician, the hacksaw is my arch enemy. I am never satisfied with the quality of the cut! Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

A defect is a defect! With the crazy amount of torque these tools produce, you think the casing would be beefier! Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

Stolen from another site! SKILLSAW: A portable cutting tool used to make boards too short. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh shit’. Will easily wind a tee shirt off your back. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. CHANNEL LOCKS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. HACK SAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for igniting various flammable objects in your shop and creating a fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. Very effective for digit removal!! HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut large pieces into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. Also excels at amputations. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of all the crap you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. PVC PIPE CUTTER: A tool used to make plastic pipe too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Also very effective at fingernail removal. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door. Works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. These can also be used to initiate a trip to the emergency room so a doctor can sew up the damage. SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘Son of a bitch’ at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What about this? Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

Warranty? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For the record, the Milwaukee M18 Fuel hammer drill is definitely one of the best at hammering, no doubt. Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

The M18 is a more powerful drill. Sure. Torque isn't what counts when drilling concrete, it's impact energy. Hammer drills just don't have much impact energy, that's why they don't​ usually measure it or even publish it. It's good in a pinch for small holes, but that's about it. It can't touch a real rotary hammer. You go ahead and try to drill a 5/8" hole through a foot of poured concrete with a hammer drill, LOL!! Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

They are two completely different tools. A rotary hammer drill will do an infinitely better job! Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

Speed control is handled by electronics/speed controller with a brushless motor, and you usually hear the whine from the mosfets etc at low speed. The lower the speed the greater the whine and strain. A brushed motor can be very simply controlled through the trigger switch / variable voltage. Much simpler design. The Newer 4 poles are damn near bulletproof. A brushed will always take more punishment! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think makitas approach is smart. I personally think it's insane to have to adopt another battery platform. The width isn't that big of a deal. It's still slimmer than the front with the guard on, so what difference does it really make? The balance is probably awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or 40 volts if you bend the truth like DeWalt does Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 2x 18v batteries make 36volts.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UL listing is not mandatory, it's an insurance standard that's tested higher than a typical ETL or CSA standard. There are several other acceptable standards in North America, even though some are pretty sketchy.... https://www.osha.gov/dts/otpca/nrtl/nrtllist.html Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I like to think I am very qualified to give some advice on multi bit drivers. Other than my insulated set, my Multibit is my go-to. I try my best to keep the weight down in my service bag and backpack. My long reach Klein 15-1 and Wera Kraftform Kompact 28 and my everyday carries. I carry a flat Wera demo driver with a conduit reamer fastened to it, this serves all my prying and chiseling needs. Everyone should own a Multibit, that have come a long way and are very reliable. I currently own the following: Klein 11-1 Wera Kraftform Kompact 26 Wera Kraftform Kompact 28 Klein 15-1 Classic Multibit Milwaukee 10-1 Multibit Milwaukee 11-1 Multibit Klein 4-1 Electronics Screwdriver Picquic 6 pack Klein Stubby Multibit I think I have a problem, I didn't realize I owned this many... Hope this helps. Here is the condensed version: Klein 11-1 This is the best overall Multibit. Cheap, easy to get replacement bits. Good comfortable grip and decent weight. Fastest bit change. Wera Kraftform Kompact 26 Hands down the lightest, most comfortable grip. Bit holder is awkward and makes tight space screw access impossible. That's why I bought the 28. You can use the bit holder in your impact. Folds down for compact portability. Wera Kraftform Kompact 28 This is my favorite for two reasons, comfort and grip. Not the fastest bit change but gets into tight spaces and you can remove the bit holder for use in your impact. Folds down etc. Klein 15-1 Classic Multibit This is my second favorite and the only one that feel like a traditional screwdriver. Weight is excellent and has a nice long reach. Milwaukee 10-1 Multibit This thing is a giant piece of crap. It's a poor Picquic knockoff and the heaviest of them all. Bonus points for being able to use the bits in your impact though. It feels bulky and clumsy in the hand, balance is awful. Bits are very soft, rounding easily. Milwaukee 11-1 Multibit. I had high hopes for this thing. Very disappointed. It's a bad Klein knockoff. The most irritating thing is that it's soooooo short. It doesn't reach into the back of a standard deep box. It's almost comical just how short it is. It's very heavy and not as comfortable as the Klein. Klein 4-1 Electronics Screwdriver This is the best controls Screwdriver. I love this thing. Klein hit a homerun with this one. A quick change multibit controls screwdriver was the one tool I didn't know I needed. Now that I have it, I bought a second one and put it away just in case mine goes missing! Picquic 6 Pack More of a homeowner tool. I bought two of them. I dropped the first one and bit holder fell out of the plastic handle. Dropped the second one, guess what happened? The bit holder fell out again. They never go back in right and keep falling out. Klein Stubby Multibit Same as big brother, fast bit change, nice weight and comfortable grip. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The reality is that they are all good. None were terrible. Not one of those were total disappointments. Unless you go crazy with stress tests and measure heat, torque stall etc., you won't see huge differences. Personally I would love to see a water / dirt and dust test. Then you would see a different story. I think the 4 pole Hilti would be surprising after a bath! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see that, I was looking at the Canadian site and saw brushless, now that's gone too. Odd. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep in mind, the Hilti is brushed. The newer 4 pole Brushed designs are powerful, efficient and don't rely on control electronics. It should be much more reliable and have a longer lifespan. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Oh, got this today! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Comp, can you do me a favor? I need a few loaves of rye bread from 5 Star, a couple dozen persians and a Hoito breakfast. Thanks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk