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Craftsman grinder cleanup/refurbish/restoration


rrich1

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Can't stop won't stop!

 

Up next is a Craftsman grinder model 397.19580 1/3 HP industrial. The bottom plate is stamped January 1966. It's just a baby compared to the drill press! The grinder itself is in great shape. It runs beautifully and turns so smoothly. The main issues of concern are the shield's. They are somewhat bent out of shape. The paint on the light silver does have a little chipping on it. The dark gray is pretty close to the dark shadow gray of the drill press. At the moment I am going to try and get it cleaned up the best I can and see what I am working with. I will paint the shield's for sure. Here is what I have done today to break it down. Luckily all the parts are there including the tray which is nice.

 

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I think mass makes a lot of difference. I grew up using a Craftsman grinder just like that and it does a good job. We abused the crap out of i and it never failed.  But when you are talking about new stuff there is a HUGE difference in something like a Baldor grinder compared to what you buy at big box stores. Big $$$ difference too.

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I think mass makes a lot of difference. I grew up using a Craftsman grinder just like that and it does a good job. We abused the crap out of i and it never failed.  But when you are talking about new stuff there is a HUGE difference in something like a Baldor grinder compared to what you buy at big box stores. Big $$$ difference too.

Agreed.

 

Got the rest of it apart today before work. Got the main body parts cleaned up with some simple green. I haven't cleaned the silver strip with the name plate yet though. There are some blobs or runs of paint that I don't think I can ignore. Looking more and more like a repaint job. Which is fine. Done it before obviously lol. 6e428c85312781692d8af8005f0a6285.jpgd19a93ee4f023cabcc3a318578ab5c4b.jpgc40213dd810ec443679690a8aee5c133.jpg0188dff88842b3ece01250ea38100503.jpg

 

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We all knew how this would play out. Let's not kid ourselves.

Started sanding the outside for paint. Since I redid the drill press my ocd would get the better of me sooner or later if I didn't redo the outside of the grinder. Not sure how much more I will do. They are only vacuum cleaned right now. 0b80a5aa8054e481a9a1d48ea65f4886.jpg811fbddea7cc03d84bba50c8d2458300.jpg

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12 minutes ago, rrich1 said:

We all knew how this would play out. Let's not kid ourselves.

Started sanding the outside for paint. Since I redid the drill press my ocd would get the better of me sooner or later if I didn't redo the outside of the grinder. Not sure how much more I will do. They are only vacuum cleaned right now. 0b80a5aa8054e481a9a1d48ea65f4886.jpg811fbddea7cc03d84bba50c8d2458300.jpg

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Very nice job bro looks very clean . next I have a grinder for ya to clean for me ????

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On 3/5/2017 at 3:42 PM, rrich1 said:

Agreed.

 

Got the rest of it apart today before work. Got the main body parts cleaned up with some simple green. I haven't cleaned the silver strip with the name plate yet though. There are some blobs or runs of paint that I don't think I can ignore. Looking more and more like a repaint job. Which is fine. Done it before obviously lol. 6e428c85312781692d8af8005f0a6285.jpg

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Nice Gedore and Napa Witte screwdrivers!

 

Man those windings look damn good. That is in great shape internally.

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45 minutes ago, rrich1 said:


This thing was flawless on the inside
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That had to have been stored in a really nice/clean environment. That tape normally falls off and the wire insulation generally gets hard and a little brittle.

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Last coat of clear is on right now. Also got the eye shields taken apart and cleaned the glass. Tube rivets will hopefully be here by Monday and I will start on the silver pieces (eye shields, center section, and lamp shade)365a8af1a5ceb98e015e21244158acca.jpg3670b35fab1524b88acfa76b738d3aa0.jpgec8ad7ab1646d7d58a00ac78fecd3f6c.jpg

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You could use scotch brite and go in one direction, I've always loved the brushed metal look. I have a Pioneer amp from the 70s with a brushed finish at the shop, it's gorgeous. They continued the look from the 70s and 80s so it would be period. If you do bare metal you'll probably want to clear coat it unless you want some patina on it.

 

It definitely looks good with the contrasting colors, I think as-is, brushed or paint in a lighter contrasting color will all look great.

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I ended up buying a buffing kit from Eastwood specifically for shit like this:

 

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1hp-buff-motor-buffing-kit-and-stand.html

 

I haven't used it enough to be good at it yet, but I have done a couple projects with it and had good results. 

 

I've considered their powder coating kit to do chrome and other metallics, but haven't made the jump yet. 

 

http://www.eastwood.com/dual-voltage-hotcoat-powder-gun.html

 

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-bench-top-powder-coating-oven.html?fee=7&fep=5682&SRCCODE=PLA00020&product_id=15635&adpos=1o1&creative=83580266340&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAuonGBRCaotXoycysvIMBEiQAcxV0nLRAmPKEJ9Hvn8nVyST01W9-P6xAT7rD1cWqEOX2zX4aAt-v8P8HAQ

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You could use scotch brite and go in one direction, I've always loved the brushed metal look. I have a Pioneer amp from the 70s with a brushed finish at the shop, it's gorgeous. They continued the look from the 70s and 80s so it would be period. If you do bare metal you'll probably want to clear coat it unless you want some patina on it.
 
It definitely looks good with the contrasting colors, I think as-is, brushed or paint in a lighter contrasting color will all look great.

I would definitely put clear on it. The color I bought to originally put on that section is a really silver metallic color so it would still be a good contrast. Decisions decisions.

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I ended up buying a buffing kit from Eastwood specifically for shit like this:
 
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1hp-buff-motor-buffing-kit-and-stand.html
 
I haven't used it enough to be good at it yet, but I have done a couple projects with it and had good results. 
 
I've considered their powder coating kit to do chrome and other metallics, but haven't made the jump yet. 
 
http://www.eastwood.com/dual-voltage-hotcoat-powder-gun.html
 
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-bench-top-powder-coating-oven.html?fee=7&fep=5682&SRCCODE=PLA00020&product_id=15635&adpos=1o1&creative=83580266340&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAuonGBRCaotXoycysvIMBEiQAcxV0nLRAmPKEJ9Hvn8nVyST01W9-P6xAT7rD1cWqEOX2zX4aAt-v8P8HAQ

I'd really like to get a powder coater. I think it would have been way more durable than the paint.

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21 minutes ago, rrich1 said:


I'd really like to get a powder coater. I think it would have been way more durable than the paint.

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Eastwood offers their original gun for like $79 and a dual voltage (for better performance in recesses) for around $100.  HF and Grizzly offer set ups as well. HF is the cheapest, but we know why that usually is. 

 

You could use use any old oven you're willing to dedicate for that purpose, and therein lies my problem. I'd like to have a big enough oven to be able to do ATV and Motorcycle frames, so an old household oven won't work. I could get Eastwood's little oven for small parts, but I'd have to build my own big oven, well, either that or cough up $3,000 and a trip to Iowa or somewhere. 

 

Theres a really nice how to on YouTube, but until I redo my shop I just don't have the space which has caused me to put off getting one until I can set it up the way I want. 

 

The metallic PCoats would be especially nice to do, especially for resto stuff. 

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@Conductor562 Could you not build a temporary plywood container to the size you need, line it with foil backed foam insulation sheet material, and heat it with a Milwaukee or other brand heat gun, using a double wall exhaust tube as an inlet? The set temperature for powder isn't that extreme and a food thermometer could be used to watch the temp while manually controlling the heat gun. You might have to experiment with an exhaust vent size to help control the heat, but I think for limited use, building something would work well enough for such a short term heat cycle. If there is a concern of ignition of any fumes, then just run a pipe around the interior and straight to an exhaust port without exposing the interior space directly to the heat being generated.

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