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Testing The Band Saw.....


comp56

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so I figured I would test the cutting ability of the band saw, I took a piece wood I had outside and cleaned it up......

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I wanted to see how well the resaw was going to be so I took very thin cuts on one side like veneer.....stayed true for the entire length

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I cut a piece off and cut it into 4 pieces and put them back together in reverse to give a wobble effect...slapped it on a spinning stand and off to do some more sanding......

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over all I'm liking it, once it was dialed in it cuts nicely......i'll be doing many projects with this bad boy...

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I can't wait to get a proper bandsaw in my workshop, I had a crappy table top model that was a death trap.  I have had my eye a model from grizzly, which I will be ordering soon.

ya I had one like too, now this one is not the best of the best but for me it is twice the saw I will ever need in my little shop the horse power alone is triple...cut through that 4" x 6" like butter....

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ya they are both great machines, one may have a good fence and another won't.....depending on price they are in the same play field. get what you can for features and price.

things to remember the rikon machines have angled wheels, they DO NOT run coplaner, so top wheel runs in center but bottom wheel does not. Grizzly machines market this and have coplaner adjustments, laguna ignores the coplaner issue as does the King industries. you can google coplaner with band saw wheels and you will find 500 people say perfect alignment is best (blade in center of both wheels) and you will also find 500 other people say not true.....from my experience building 100's of 800+ foot conveyor systems the pulleys were never true to each other and one was for adjustment.

oh and by the way, center of wheel means the blade runs in center of crowned wheel but this is the biggest mistake people make......the blade should be set so the bottom of the gullet is center on top wheel and not worry about bottom wheel. This info may be totally something people have never tried or knew about or think I'm crazy but if you set it this way the band saw will run better than ever and less drift.

I have about a 6 point set up to any brand band saw and will make it run the best it ever will ...( unless the machine is actually damaged or twisted)...I will post a full in depth post about it shortly....

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update, so now that I have dialed in this band saw I figured I got such a good deal on it I would replace the guide bearings with better than stock....total cost was only $30.56 for 8 bearings got them local.......I stoned the back edge of the blade and rounded the back for smooth cutting ( sanding the the back of the blade to make smoother tight corners with a wet stone, same as sharpening a knife) anyway I did some tight cutting to try it all out.....these pieces still need to be sanded....

 

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thanks guys like I said before I will post a full in depth post about how to properly set any band saw to get it's best performance and abilities.....

oh by the way just for the record I cut those pieces in the last post at about 1 1/8" thick then ran it with a resaw to about 1/4". easier to cut thicker and make thinner than it is to cut thin. Plus this way resaw again and you have doubles or triples.....

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update, so now that I have dialed in this band saw I figured I got such a good deal on it I would replace the guide bearings with better than stock....total cost was only $30.56 for 8 bearings got them local.......I stoned the back edge of the blade and rounded the back for smooth cutting ( sanding the the back of the blade to make smoother tight corners with a wet stone, same as sharpening a knife) anyway I did some tight cutting to try it all out.....these pieces still need to be sanded....

DSC_1869.jpg

DSC_1874.jpg

Thunder Bay ?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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