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olletsocmit

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Everything posted by olletsocmit

  1. I picked this up for $4:89 at Home Depot today. Was on clearance rack. Not sure why. Is this the one you all use or is it old? It's 1/2" But fits my Milwaukee fuel drill.
  2. is anyone suggesting i wrap it on the inside before i put in insulation and drywall? like cut strips on it and put between each 2x4? or is there some type of moisture barrier role i can put against it? I was thinking that the few holes i have, i have put the pieces back in the hole and covered in duct tape. Take the tape off, put adhesive in the holes and glue the broken pcs back in and then cover in a layer of drywall mud, then tape, then another layer of mud?
  3. I found it!! Mine is smooth on the outside not textured like most of those fiberboards. I think what i have is "Solid gypsum board". It looks like its plaster based and not fiber board, which makes sense b/c when it breaks off its white inside. The pic came from this site: http://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Plaster_Systems_in_Buildings.php @JimboS1ice and @KnarlyCarl wanted u guys to see i found what it is.. very strange to me for a house large house on 1.5 acre plots in a neighborhood.. right?
  4. so i found a few things here... here is a site that has a lot of info about it. It says that its an insulator as well as sound barrier, but i still want to insulate under the drywall either way. no info anywhere on how to patch the holes nor how to seal the seams. also need to fugure out what to use to seal all the sides of the 2x4's. Thinking i should do a vapor barrier right on top of it then insulate, then sheetrock, but not sure yet. -- Info site: http://inspectapedia.com/structure/Fiberboard_Sheathing.php#FWtr -- Someone else asking about wtf it is any why its not plywood: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/74927/house-sheating-is-not-plywood-whats-this-material
  5. My house is only 25ish years old. 4 bedroom, 3 bath. 1.5 acre plots. I'm in a neighborhood with roughly 100 houses. I wonder if I should cut a hole in the 2 walls that are partially finished (just 1 coat of mud and tape. Make sure that there is actually insulation behind lol. @regopit please see first post and this thread. I was told you may have some advice/be of help.
  6.  yeah I'm really pissed off it's not just plywood like normal. I wanted to go ahead and just lay the insulation and finish it. I will post some pictures in a little bit of what it looks like when I gets hit and cracks off so u can see the inside. Does anybody know what my next step is does it need to get primed or something, do I need to spray it or is there some type of plastic I put over it then insulation? I'm at a loss of what to do
  7. Ok i can really use some advice and here here bad. Just spent about 2 hrs looking over the net and still have not gotten any solid info. I have a 2.5 car garage, but only 2 of the 4 walls are finished (as in they hung drywall, spackled over the nail holes, and taped the seams w/ only 1 coat.) The other 2 walls are not finished at all. All the unfinished garages i see, there is usually plywood behind the studs. I have some weird dark brown sheets that kinda look like drywall. (see the pics below). I think the aluminum siding it nailed right to this brown boards. some spots of it have got bumped and fell off and its like a 1/2" if white hard concrete looking stuff inside. this worries me that there is like no good barrier between the outside world but an old board. do i need to cover it all with plywood or some type of plastic vapor barrier and then start to insulate and drywall?? Also i just noticed that there is a shelf in there that we store pool chairs and umbrellas & stuff. someone must of pushed o the poles to get them up there and they hit the brown board stuff. i looked outside and the aluminum siding is now dented out pretty good. so if i were to hit the brown stuff with a hammer or kick it, it would dent the siding outwards when you go out to look at it. something does not need right to me. i at min need to patch any holes or dents in it as well as tape the seams, b/c a hold means that the only barrier is the siding. I need help. There is Only plywood above the garage doors... I am also confused why they only did about 5" all around the top but not the rest of the wall below As you can see below, I used duct tape to patch a section of the brown board that i saw had started to fall apart and come off the wall, im sure there is a proper way to fix it thou and i want to know before its too late..
  8. I found a great deal at Walmart for $19 - everywhere else was around $50.
  9. So for the past month I've been putting my battery on a trickle charger for a 1/2 hour before i mow the lawn b/c it's dead. Getting tired of it so want to pick up a new battery. I went to Pep Boys and it was $50 for one. anyone have any suggestions on where to find cheap lawnmower batteries. Below are pictures of my battery I was told I could go with a 250cca since they are more common and it would still be safe. I know with lawnmower batteries the positive can be on the left or the right. they had a 250 cca one at Home Depot today for $30, but the + was on the wrong side. I currently have a Diehard 230 CCA - LG-2 -- U1R (+ is on the right)
  10. Craftsman LT1000 - 917.272050 - 16hp - 42" deck - Kohler motor I hope that some of you have some thoughts and good advice here. I have a 10-year-old craftsman riding mower that is in really good condition. I just changed the oil, the air and fuel filter, and replaced the battery & replaced the steering shaft & armpit bushing. II am having issues with the cut quality, so I just re-sharpened the blades last night. I'll have to look into see if there are some better blades out there for my mower. But the biggest issue is all the grass that gets stuck inside the deck! I'm thinking that I need to go ahead and completely remove the deck & sand the whole deck down inside and repaint. Are there suggestions on a special process I should clean the inside of the deck or I've seen online there are some special kinds of paint. just want to do it right since it's going to be kind of a big project.
  11. How the hell do you get that longer one up there looks like you need to put it up on one side and then struggle to keep it from hitting the ceiling to push it all the way back or is this one of those adjustable thanks
  12. This is how the larger 24 foot ladder turned out these were just brackets I had laying around as well. Sorry for the shitty pictures. As you can tell my next project is figuring out what kind of lighting to do and the best way to do it in the garage before I finish the attic floor These cabinets also went in today I got them free from a friend who redid a house not bad
  13. The shelf bracket thing is very interesting I really like that!@kato There are so many crazy things online and at Home Depot like where you connect one side and then pull a string the other side and it sucks all your ladders flat to the ceiling but I think that may be kind of too much Haha.
  14. Geez no one, I never get the cold shoulder around here like this ha ha. Just asking because I have a Home Depot coupon that expires tomorrow so I have to get all my brackets. I have a 50% off thing. Plus the last like four times I went the person at self check out honored. the 20% off Harbor freight one
  15. I have four ladders in my garage and I was wondering if there's a better way to hang or mount them. What do you guys do please post pictures or links... I have this one mounted on regular 4 inch deep screw in brackets: Then I just hang my smaller wooden and aluminum ones on a nail: And then I'm going to hang this larger one on the opposite wall (The left hook is getting moved over 6 feet):
  16. Thanks that's a really great suggestion I'll just stick the extra 25 footer in my glove box or something
  17. My favorite tape measures are the Milwaukee ones. I've been using the 25 footer for a long time now but I've always wanted a smaller 16 foot. I was jealous of everyone who got these a few weeks back for $12. I found this wedged behind the shelf ha ha Ha. I don't need a third 25 footer but for an extra two bucks why not, the little ones kind of cool too. I'll just give it to family or sell it for five or 10 bucks...
  18. Milwaukee 110%. After getting this Milwaukee drill and driver FUEL set a few months ago I don't think I could go back to anything else ...unless another competitor really released something remarkable. Although the fit and finish on a $400 drill and driver could be better.
  19. So I finish the project. Are used to thin sheet of plywood underneath and on top as you recommended. It still wasn't perfect and needed some Dremel and hand sanding work at the end .... But it sure is 100 f***ing (that word allowed to be said here? Haha) times better than flying objects coming at my face at 100+ miles an hour!! Thanks again guys sure saved me a hell of a lot of time and some stitches . And I agree with everyone a miter Saul would've been a hell of a lot better. Or some type of fixture that clamped the wood on the top and the sides kind of like they have at Home Depot and Lowe's when you get blinds cut -- although they use a table saw style cutter that goes from back to front
  20. Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I have some thinner stuff right now, looks to be about quarter inch by eight. I'll go ahead and tape it to that and give it a try and see how that works. ...if not I'll be heading to Home Depot for the size that you recommended.
  21. The cut seem to be decent 80 or 90% of the way but when it gets towards the end it ships the whole piece back brakes right off. And I was also using masking tape to tape off exactly where was being cut... This is the blade I was using: This is where it gets to almost the end and then flings the piece at me... I am cutting it off of longer pieces like this... This is a different blade and it's not taped but this is basically how I was cutting it. With my left hand holding the other side of course. The piece that I and pushing through with the black stick is flying off the saw in all different dangerous directions... Does anyone have any suggestions??
  22. I have to cut a few 3" why pieces and I picked up a nice table saw blade but my issue is when I go to cut the flat or the curved part the little piece I'm cutting gets very dangerously shot back at me
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