Framer joe

Still don’t have mine

True,,,but again, inferior to any Dewalt product...heck even the m12 fuel tools beat the subcompact line from Makita.... @Jronman

@Grumpy MSG...oh overhangs. We’ve never cut an overhang ,no such thing for anyone I know. Rafters are cut to length with the overhang included whatever it calls for....you must witness some hacks out there ,lol..funny...we always straighten our gable trim and house trim ,starting with the soffit, lined, shimmed and nailed or SS screws...then the face..the rest is the .same process......and yes we will cut/shave any rafter “ sticking out” ...if the walls are straight and the rafters are cut good( hence my cutting technique for rookies) the trim Should go on faster........ even our window trim is glued( white hot or 2p10) and pocket screwed together as 1 unit , stool,sides,top,pediment....then placed over the window for installation.... I can appreciate your train of thought though.....

@Jpgwoodworking....that 20v 7 1/4 Dewalt is not even close ,at all , to the 575 flex and light years from the direct drive....it is a fine saw for light duty or small jobs

The flex 9ah on the 20v ope stuff is a noticeable difference...I wouldn’t say the m18 is better then the Dewalt 20v line at all...that 3/9ah makes a difference on anything you put it in....... the dcf899 was king until the gen 2 Milwaukee just came out...far as I know on paper the Milwaukee is more powerful now...I haven’t seen I video where the gen 2 Milwaukee could take a Nut off that the dcf899 couldn’t... ...I do love companies pushing each other..

Isn’t that a loud compressor? 12 yrs old....I’d get the 200psi trim compressor with a holding tank...quiet as can be...

I have the area light at work , don’t like it. Light shining upwards sucks. I just received my tripod light and love it...bouncing light off a wall or ceiling is awesome..also for deck work it lights up the whole back of the house..

As you know I’m a framer...just wondering if anyone else out here gets so Damn Excited 😆.... when /if you get a Free sweatshirt or T-shirt from a lumber yard or tool company..? We got our yearly ..Free...sweatshirts from the two lumber companies we get stock from all year...each guy gets 2 and of course I take 3..they are heavy duty,quality with the lumberyard name on it....I have some of these sweatshirts still, going back 20yrs... Same in the summer with T-shirt’s.......don’t know what it is but to us it’s like winning the lottery!!!!! . Such i silly thing , but the guys (and me) go nuts 🥜 .....😃

@Grumpy MSG....this was basically to explain for “ new “ guys cutting stock....for a rafter cut..it is better to start at the top (ridge ) to keep the line ( length) of the rafter good.....most “new” guys cutting from the bottom to the top (ridge) go way off the line making the rafter either ...shorter or longer.......also all cuts are made on a set of horses...no one ever cuts at the ridge.or on staging .......generally I make All hip, valley,,Basterd hip, jack rafter cuts....but those are all done on horses also....it’s just math......no need to cut on the roof,ever......but I do appreciate your input... ...even an entire Hip Roof ( everything including common rafters, jack rafters,hip rafters) is cut on the ground on horses and a lull lifts it up as a package ..where the guys just assemble my “ kit”..quickly and efficiently...it’s pretty damn cool when other framing companies see a whole roof ( hip) or any roof cut on the ground , stacked ready to go..

@Jronman..that black and white would resemble the earlier Makita drill/ impact combo....I would never want my badass Dewalt tools to resemble those...lol

It would be great if they expand the Tstak line...I have plenty, love them but more options would be great....

Dcd767 ?

Just wanted to say Merry Christmas 🎄....or what you celebrate.....best wishes to everyone!!!!

@SetBuilder...no up until the 575 we used corded Dewalt circ saw blade right, before that skilsaw blade right, never knew any framer that used blade left or a worm drive. I know dozens of framing companies...nothing against blade left as I have the 577, only for the power....use what works for you. I just don’t get it,it’s the wrong set up for many guys cutting lumber,(2x?) but for plywood it’s fine. ..there are certain ways to cut a line for a rafter,stairs,engineered lumber,etc... let me give one example...for a novice...cutting a rafter (ridge cut) if he cuts with a blade left saw (blade is on the right side of the line)from the bottom of the line to the top of the ridge ,he will bind the blade cutting to the ridge,making a bad top(ridge) cut making the rafter shorter or longer, why ? The body (heavy weight) of the saw is hanging off the stock. If he cuts from the top to the bottom he has no line of sight,through the body with the body resting on the stock. But...with a blade right saw (much lighter). Starting at the top,(keeping the rafter the right length) the blade is on the left of the line with clear visibility ..cutting to the bottom line. Using a “drop in” method which means, raising the saw body up only cutting a 1/2” or so deep for the length of the blade,then dropping the saw down. This starts your cut about halfway perfect then just finish the cut...or from the bottom to the top,body of the saw is on the stock and use the same method.....many guys on a crew, most are not experienced,that’s just framing...so many techniques are used to help ensure quality work, this is one....I’m quite sure a pro framer can cut that line perfect with a worm drive.......I can go on...but that’s one reason...

Both great for different reasons...we use the small one at work to clear the mitresaw and table saw area frequently....the larger one to clean the house at the end of the day

@jslsker..I’ve had mine a while ,it works great...I love it..

@Jronman...that’s a tuff source to use. Those guys wouldn’t know which end of a tool to use without a cue card to read. ...they are bought and paid for to the highest bidder....AVE would probably know what’s next in battery power, he’s an interesting, intelligent guy, lots of practical knowledge “street smarts” which I’d take over “book smarts” any day..............I’m just waiting for a 12ah the same size as a 9ah Flexvolt battery..that would solve runtime issues with these high volt tools we use daily..

@builditguy...I’m a framer of custom homes over 30 yrs...you say your getting by with a 6 1/2 blade left remodeling. If you don’t need all the power the 60v flex saws will give you ,just get the new 20v circ ( but get the new one with the rafter hook). ...personally I’m right handed and love blade right, don’t know anyone that uses blade left ,but it’s a personal thing. You can’t explain to people why , they get upset. But if I showed you why a right handed guy should use blade right you’d agree, ....I have the new 577 blade left for the POWA ..if it came blade right I would of got that one. ......the 20v circ is fine for many uses, .ripping stock or stair stringers or other heavy duty use you’d want the 575 or 577....there is no cordless saw equal to the 575..the makita rear handle is closer but not equal..and nothing comes close to the 577..nothing

You can wrong if you buy the Bosch either...

I love the 20v outdoor tools, blower,trimmer,chainsaw,hedge trimmer and the soon to be lawn mower I’m sure will retire my ego self propelled.....

I believe it’s just blowing air around the outside of the batteries much like the Dewalt fan blowing air at you on a warm summer night".....

@midogrumpy...do you know if the 2drawer has bins or you can use existing bins for storage ? Same with the 3 drawer ,does the 3 drawer have bins or slotted dividers ?

Looks like this size will hold batteries...even 9ah...perfect...

I’m sure everyone was waiting for this and the two drawer...Dewalt would have made a killing if they were available Black fri till now....packout would not have had a chance.....Dewalt makes great stuff,but they drag their feet

All those 36v (2/18v) Makita tools are at Home Depot in stock with an end of isle display...at least here MA...the 12v line is new to our HD...