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DeWalt DCF620 20V Brushless Drywall Screwguns


madman_us

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yes 5/8" rock. 20 gauge metal studs. using sharp point fine thread 1 1/4 screws.

 

I only do commercial and industrial projects. typically we use 20gauge metal. sometime 16 or 18 gauge in some applications. I will be interested in seeing how the gun works on 16gauge with self tapping screws

 

put a 5.0 AH battery in this morning. I have a feeling i could rock all day without swaping batteries.  All my guys love it, i dont see myself using a corded version again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally received mine today. The DCF620P2K (the kit with 5.0Ah batteries)

Upon first feel I thought it was heavy, but when I compared it later to my cordless Protool Duradrive it's about the same weight.

Slightly longer though.

 

I need to get used to the grip, because my Protool has a D-handle where the motor is in the front part of the handle, making the top part smaller so it's easier to hold between the index finger/thumb.

One thing I don't like is the forward reverse switch. Some might like it, but I don't. Find the position (on top of the trigger) rather awkward and already bumped it into reverse several times when trying it out this afternoon.

It looks the business, but to be honest, I'm not sure if it's a keeper...

 

DCF620P2K.JPG

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Stopped by HD today and saw the Dewalt drywall screwgun it feels really nice in the hand it sucks though that I couldn't try it out the battery was dead already but looks very cool.

i seen it there too but the battery was fully loaded. i just couldnt try it out because the bit was rounded over - no clue why peeps do that,or maybe kids think its a toy

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I finally received mine today. The DCF620P2K (the kit with 5.0Ah batteries)

Upon first feel I thought it was heavy, but when I compared it later to my cordless Protool Duradrive it's about the same weight.

Slightly longer though.

 

I need to get used to the grip, because my Protool has a D-handle where the motor is in the front part of the handle, making the top part smaller so it's easier to hold between the index finger/thumb.

One thing I don't like (this was also on the testmodel I got to use briefly) is the forward reverse switch. Some might like it, but I don't. Find the position (on top of the trigger) rather awkward and already bumped it into reverse several times when trying it out this afternoon.

It looks the business, but to be honest, I'm not sure if it's a keeper...

 

DCF620P2K.JPG

really great kit you got there man

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You think it has enough torque/RPM?

It absolutely does! Man! It's smooth when running individual screws. Haven't found the bit to run the collated attachment but instead popped the square drive screws off the strip, and ran them individually by hand. Very smooth and drives the screws through two pickets, into a PT 2x4.

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Alright you fellow toolnuts, I recognize a good lookin screwgun as much as the next guy, but the real question is, if pushed to its limits, how does it do? I made a video which showed just how far I could push my drill before the kickoff circuit activated, so I am curoious as to how well the Dewalt can handle it hehe. ;)

If someone could mill a square drive driver to match the Phillips specs, I could put it to a real test. Screwing fence pickets on in Texas heat, 95+ degrees 80%+ humidity through 5/8" cedar pickets with 2" screws.

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You can't really use this screwgun for flooring jobs whatsoever. When I tested mine I had a piece of wood laying on the benchtop and the machine pointing downwards. This way the collated strip hangs and due to the design of the infeed on the collation attachment it stalls the feeding of the screws which results in the nosepiece to hang.

 

You can see this clearly in the video below where a guy compares this screwgun to a Hilti one. He encounters the same problem @ 10:17 

Now this won't happen when putting drywall or whatever on walls and ceilings. Looks like it can be fixed by altering the infeed with a file...

 

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I had a closer look at the infeed and the way it is designed it 'catches' the strip when the machine i used in a downward position.

By rounding of the infeed you can eliminate this.

How about not feeding the strips through the pistol grip portion of the collated attachment?

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That is a solution! However, I don't like having the strips dangling around so much.

Ultimately, this 'problem' only occurs screwing floorboards or such and I know the tool is designed for drywall, but these guns are often used for such purposes.

I don't do any sub floors so it's not as big of an issue for me. I just thought I'd provide a solution if someone had a one off situation and needed to use this gun.

I found a few online companies that offer custom bits. I'm going to see if I can get Square drive bits made for this gun. And maybe even torx or whatever else we may need.

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Yes indeed. A slide style switch, either on the base or on top of the tool so you don't accidentally hit it.

I didn't think that this would be such an issue but it really is. Holding the top sheet against the wall while fumbling for a screw is not the time to discover that you're also in reverse. A slide switch needs to be incorporated in the Type 2.

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  • 2 months later...

Here are some improvements for a type 2 drywall gun:

 

- Slide switch forward/reverse in a different position, preferably on top.

- No load reverse! This is funny. When you pull the trigger the motor spins but the bit will only spin on load (pressure) the problem is that it is also doing this in reverse. Try to get a screw out like that. My DeWALT rep talked about this and yesterday I experienced the same thing. You probably can get screws out when it's in a stud, but if you miss a stud forget about it.

- Shorter collated attachment. It's quite long. I know it needs some length for the travel of the bit/mechanism, but the shorter the better.

- Also on the collated attachment. Smaller tip. It's a bit hard to precisely point where you wanna screw because the tip blocks the view. Needs to be a more open and possibly smaller design

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I know they do fieldtesting and they do it a lot. But the majority of testers must have liked the forward/reverse switch as it is, so I guess that's why DeWALT went with that. Right now it's far too easy to set it in reverse by mistake.

Anyway those are the updates I would like to see. + that Protool/Festool auto-start/stop system when their patent expires :P

 

Or DeWALT can really up their game and incorporate a small button style trigger on the side(s) where you place your thumb and index finger.

This could make the tool consideraly smaller because the space for the regular style trigger can be ditched.

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I know they do fieldtesting and they do it a lot. But the majority of testers must have liked the forward/reverse switch as it is, so I guess that's why DeWALT went with that. Right now it's far too easy to set it in reverse by mistake.

Anyway those are the updates I would like to see. + that Protool/Festool auto-start/stop system when their patent expires :P

Or DeWALT can really up their game and incorporate a small button style trigger on the side(s) where you place your thumb and index finger.

This could make the tool consideraly smaller because the space for the regular style trigger can be ditched.

Ahhhh, I interpreted your requests/suggestions as a list of improvements for the type 2.

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