ChrisK

Yeah, I forgot about that new release. Had Makita been in the game before I at have considered going with that line but the old 12v line I did not like. I've got a few Bosch 12v tools now and am very happy with the lineup and don't see the benefit to switching over to them. The tools are taller than my Bosch PS22 but yeah the head length on that new Makita is smaller. Truthfully the OP does not care about the number of tools in the lineup so Makita is certainly viable for that. On on another note about the Makita 12v lineup. I wouldn't buy the, because I just got the new Makita sub compact XDT15 which is about the same size of the 12v and powers the small collection of 18v Makita tools I have. For the OP, Makita makes awesome tools. I've got a few including the grinder, the aforementioned impact, the X2 chainsaw, the brushless recip and the brushless barrel grip jiggy. I like those tools quite a lot. I don't own any more Bosch 18v tools. They make great tools, just had some issues with the 1/4 chuck / anvil on my IDH182 and got rid of it. The Bosch 12v tools are great though, I have the PS22, the rotary tool, FL12 light, vacuum and two heated jackets (my wife has one).

I just notice you have the exact same set up as I do with my Kapex. I bought the Oneida system last year (haven't changed a bag since!) and have been using the Bosch hose for a couple of years. It's way cheaper. I ended up cutting the hose down to maybe 4-5'? The dust collection on the saw is uncompromised but the shorter hose has helped even more.

Bosch. Second largest lineup and the most compact tools out right now. I have hpthe 12v brushless screwdriver and use it all the time. Plenty of power and the head is tiny.

I liked it for the most part. The blade overshot the handle so every once in a while I'd catch the back of my hand on that little spur and give myself a little slice. I also got the semi serrated blade and I should've gotten the straight blade. I carried it in my pocket and it made quick work of seatblets, bandage packages, lunches etc Anyways. The springs were going and my buddy was going to send it out for free repair but it was a solidly built knife and it kept an edge for a long time. All of the parts were metal, no plastic at all, heavy duty tool and really compact.

Nice, glad it's working out dude.

I used to carry a Benchmade auto knife daily at work but I sold it to a buddy of mine a few years back because he kept pestering me about it and I needed the cash. I'm getting permissions from Gerber for their new auto knife but it has to go through an approval process because they are controlled tools/weapons. I'm not a hundred percent sold though as I still have two Gerber assisted opening knives and both have failed springs. I figure I'll get the new one am done try it out because of a discounted price. Worst case, meh. Best case? I've got a tool I can use at work that'll serve me well like my Leatherman MUT.

Welcome aboard bro.

Sorry Jimbo but I think you'll like it

Actually no. I didn't build the house but it is designed with a drainage syste, beneath the foundation that feeds out into the woods behind my house facing downslope. It's really dry down there too. The family we bought our home from had some really expensive musical instruments and some furniture down there. They had throw not an area rug down and had a small den in place. Eventually, I will have a shop in an outbuilding and the framing I do will eventually continue and insulation will be added and the particle board walls will be replaced with sheet rock.

Love it dude

I have a DCD996! Why NOT?!?!?!?!?!?

Hey Buddy I've had one for a couple of years. I use it on my atv and it works flawlessly, use it in the shop....the same. I use it getting hay and have a terrible hay fever. Works awesome! Actually it is pretty comfortable when you consider putting something on your face!

Yeah right? I think we are all in agreement here. NOT a good idea!!!

Agreed but I was responding directly to the question relative to using two clamps, on both sides of the blade. If he had the correct blade on a modified tile saw or a regular saw the possibility of wood binding would be a real issue. But yeah, a regular blade on this type of saw would more likely than not be thrown off balance, have the arbor hole elongated or simply come apart in a crescendo of feces

The problem with clamping two sides of wood IS kickback! The wood will get bound up in the blade bro! For instance....my Kapex, like my Ridgid before it and my Craftsman before that has two clamp holders, one per side. The saw comes with one clamp though. The reason behind it is if you clamp both sides your wood can get bound in the blade and cause a catostrophic need to change your underwear. Ultimately, of the tool is purpose built for a purpose, I'd let it perform that action. Tile saws are super fast to make cutting those tiles a breeze with a specialty blade whereas a table saw, though fast, is spinning at a slower speed. Take into consideration the size of the blade that sits on the arbor. A tile blade is much heavier than a thin or thick kerf blade. Now you are throwing the balance of the machine off. Ultimately, it's an accident waiting to happen!

Hehehehe

I'm not a big red fan but I hate Tom admit it, my Milwaukee magnetic tape Ismail a good all around tape. My Bostich tape has served me well for years but God alone knows where's I misplaced it during the move. Kind of like my Ridgid flip top. I've been using a stool a box and piece of 2x4 for material support in my shop while framing those walls.

I don't think that's a good idea. Get an RZ Mask or a filter mask. Something with a physical filter.

I've built several work tables, outfeed tables and even in my first shop blog... I highlighted some tables and a mobile work bench with a lift top and pull out drawers on extensions. I sold my home this August and for a variety of reasons, the only shop piece bit of furniture I now possess is the heavy duty stand for my Rikon Midi lathe. I am now starting my second shop blog "New Shop Underway...Part Deuce" as I just began framing some partial walls and running electric for a new basement wood shop. A big part of this will be a new mobile outfeed table for my Sawstop and a new bench. This time though my next bench will not be mobile. It will be influenced by Christopher Scwarz' book "Workbenches: from design and theory to construction and use" and will feature a couple of vises. My outfeed table though will be a modern one similar to my last one with large casters, open storage bays and an extension drawer or two. Or three. Or four..... Regardless, if your going for a more power tool friendly table and you want it mobile, use large rubber casters. Don't cheap out and buy the small hard plastic ones. I built all of my work bench / tables with the larger rubber casters and my small tables for my Dewalt contractor saw and Dewalt planer with the smaller hard plastic ones. They get hung up in sawdust, cords, wood chips, screws, you name it. Also, make sure you make or allow for power cords and don't make the table too deep, it'll be a pain in the butt to reach across. Hope this helps dude!

I'm very interested in your thoughts on this one bro

eBay Todd!

I did Jimbo. It's working wonderfully, that was one of the missing systainers

My Flexvolt grinder came in today. Stupid impulse buy but $117 was a no brainer

I was just destroying joists with my DCD996 and some Milwaukee hole saws. Frigging amazing torque on my Dewalt. Love it!

I haven't but have been dying to get the glow in the dark kit for epoxy and do a table with some of the knots filled with it. I've seen some great finished projects on some live edge stuff that looks fantastic.