khariV

That's awesome. Is that like cutting board material? I'd love to see pics of the build when you're all done.

I probably didn't do a great job communicating what I really meant. I was referring to the edge guide bar itself deflecting laterally. I cut plywood sitting on the ground on top of a 2" piece of foam, so there's no vertical movement at all. However, the guide bar itself bends and my straight line turns into a curved line if I press too tightly against it while making a cut. This is only a problem on longer cuts where I have to put the 2 pieces together. On shorter cuts, the bar is sufficiently rigid not to have this problem.

I use the same edge guide. It works fairly well, but doesn't do anything to prevent chip out on plywood but I know that scoring the cut line and / or making two passes would solve this. However, a bigger problem is that, on longer cuts, for me it's difficult to keep the saw tight against the guide without having the guide slip laterally. Tracks for track saws are much wider and I imagine have significantly less / no horizontal flex. The fact that there's a track to keep the saw straight without having to apply horizontal pressure also helps to eliminate this problem.

Actually, I do have one. I admit though that I've only used it a few times and never really tried to stall it taking off more than a very small amount to even out some maple and poplar face frames. I'll accept your argument though that more power would be nice and leave it at that.

Does it need one? Other than the "it's cool because it's brushless" factor, what would be gained by having it brushless? You don't need tons of torque or massive runtime on a planer.

I think that a high end track saw that would compete with Festool / Mafell probably wouldn't be in their product roadmap. However, there are plenty of carpenters that do finish work that could use one - from decks to built-ins. A cordless track saw base / shroud on their fuel circular saw wouldn't be that difficult to assemble and would certainly be useful to a lot of people in the reno/new construction trades. You could make the same argument for a cordless trim router. Perhaps after they flesh out plumbing and electrical trades, the product guys will take a look at carpentry again.

That would be nice. However, I suspect that there are enough bone headed "I take the safety features off of my tools as soon as I buy them" people out there that would rather save a few $ on the price of a saw that this won't take root. After all, there is still a thriving community of people that refuse to wear seatbelts and actually exchange tips on how to disable the alarms and bings that new cars have when you don't put it on.

I've always heard that you're NOT supposed to store your wet stones in water, just soak them an hour or so before you use them. Storing them in water brings the likelihood that you'll end up with bacteria / mold in the water if you don't change it every day, not to mention the fact that some stones will turn to mush if left in standing water for too long.

This makes me sad. Here sawstop, sawstop - I'll take care of you - park you inside where you'll never get rained on again

I like the DMT stones. I went with the combo stone (Fine/Extra-Fine) and a base. I find that I don't have to soak the stone, like I had to do with a water stone, so a reservoir hasn't been necessary to contain the mess.

I can't find any mention of it on their website. I did find a new 7/8" SDS rotary hammer, but no compressor. Perhaps it was a trade show preview sort of thing.

I think "better safety mechanism" is a matter of opinion. You're quite right that the Sawstop ruins the blade and the brake mechanism when it triggers. However, the Bosch flesh detecting tech, while it works, gives you a greater chance of injury. There's a series of videos on the youtubes showing exactly what happens when you push your hand at high speed into the spinning blade of both saws. The Bosch made a significantly larger cut and I suspect that, had the blade not been almost entirely "hidden" by the 2x4, the injury would have been much worse and possibly required a trip to the ER. It will still probably save your fingers from being amputated, but I think it's note quite as safe as the Sawstop and has greater potential for injury. On the job-site, the Bosch is certainly faster to reset and cheaper to operate. For my fingers though in my garage, I'm going to go with the safer alternative, even if it will cost more (cabinet saws aren't cheap) to buy and operate.

Taking them into a service center will require a receipt. Using the eService asks for one, but if you don't then the 5 year warranty period starts from the manufacture date in the serial number.

If you're hoping someone here is going to talk you out of buying tools, I'm afraid you've come to the wrong place.

I had to do some investigating. In UK English, joinery is essentially finish carpentry. Here it has a completely different meaning. I learned something new. Thanks!

Nice score. What's a joinery center?

Ooohhh.. polisher. Need to polish things and make them shiny again...

I never really liked lockback knives. I'm always afraid that I'll push the lock when I'm pushing down hard to cut something. A while ago, I had a Kobalt utility knife that had the blade release button right on the back of the blade and it was really dangerous as the blade kept popping out.

Well, perhaps that's the meaning of the word select in "free bonus tool with select purchase"

I think the deal is you buy a 9.0 / rapid charger at full price and get a free circular saw or sawzall.

Wow - I'd be all over this if I didn't just buy one few months ago. It's a bit loud, but a great vacuum.

I actually went into HD today fully intending to buy the Ridgid miter saw. It was marked down to $199, but I couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger. I just don't need a fourth battery platform or a third miter saw.

It's supposed to be for reaming out pipes.

One more thing to consider is that Milwaukee could easily invalidate your warranty if you use an aftermarket battery and you end up having to send the tool in for service. The electronics in the tools keep track of these sorts of things.

Best is a going to be a matter of opinion as well as depending on what dimension board you want to square. Fewest tools you can do it with is one: a good table saw. Not the most economical route and you of course have to square IT up somehow, but that's a larger discussion. You can also do it with a circular saw and a home made fence and a square much more cheaply, though repeatable cuts tend to be quite a bit more challenging if you go that route.