Mycrossover

Made in USA is largely a promise at this point. The plants that will make the tools from "foreign and domestic parts are not here yet so SB&D Craftsman is mostly still an import. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Nobody has mentioned who currently owns Skil. Bosch sold it to a Chinese company called Chervon. They claim to be a Worldwide major manufacturer of power tools so they must make a lot more than Skil. I had never heard of them before they bought Skil. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Porter cable is the stepchild in the SB&D lineup. It is higher than B&D and lower than DeWalt. With the new Craftsman power tools aiming at the same market segment, it will only get worse. When PC was a separate company, many years ago, they were up there with Milwaukee. They were bought By Rockwell who added a lot of Skil quality junk to the line but kept the good stuff. The next owner was Pentair, who dropped the junk and returned them to their former glory. Then B&D bought them and under them and later SB&D it has been a downhill slide. They have too many brands and it looks like PC is the odd man out. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I believe there are riveter attachments for electric drills, too. I don't know how convenient or durable they are but if you can power it with a powerful drill from a system you have already bought into, it should save money. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Like other companies, SnapOn may just license their name to companies making accessories and low end stuff or maybe just has it made for them. Costco is an outlet for stuff like SnapOn gloves and flashlights. None of it is made by Snap On just like some of the stuff in the truck line. They can make a few bucks and apparantly not damage their reputation. I bought a wireless phone battery that said GE. In fine print it said that the xyz company had a license from GE to import these Chinese phone batteries and sell it under their name. Clothing designers often have many licensees using their logo for everything from belts to toilet paper. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Let us not forget the B&D Versapak, first in NiCd and then in NiMH for longer run time They were 3.6 volt and used single or in pairs for 7.2 volts. It was definitely a system including power screw drivers, Dustbuster hand vacuums, Scumbuster bathroom scrubbers, drills and probably more. The chargers were just trickle chargers guarrantying a reduced battery life from overcharging. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

315.xxx is the prefix code for Ryobi as the vendor of this saw to Sears. I would just get a heavy duty replacement plug at the big box store. I have used them many times with no problem. If yoyu are ambitious, replace the cord but make sure the original does not use some molded strain relief at the saw, that you cannot match, reuse, or work around. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Absolutely. Many lifts were designed to use this router. As far a single speed, I suggest that you get a router speed control rated to handle the current of this router. In the day it was the gold standard for router table service. Make sure the table is beefy enough to carry the weight without warping. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Read the clear instructions and look at the pictures in your owners manual. If you have lost it you can download it. Just google the model number. I found it inmediately Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have the HF 44 set in the garage and I am very satisfied. The new model is even a little deeper. It does not move around so I cannot coment on how it would do if it did. As far as old Craftsman, if that includes the red and gray, I have a 26 set in the basement along with a similar Dayton branded Waterloo and I think the HF is a much better box. I have had the HF quite a while, old sand finish, and the others since they were new, in the 70's. I am not familiar with the other boxes you are looking at but I suspect any of them would do the job. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Are you talking about the white stuff, like Lubriplate? I am no lube expert but have never seen that stuff in a gear case. You can look up what you have and see what it was intended for. If it were my tool I would stick yo a grar case lube, though I would not hesitate to cross brands. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If you are sure there is no screw and it is held with Loctite, try a big hex bit in an impact wrench. That has never failed me. Much better than a hex key and a hammer. It is hard to believe that they are depending on Loctite to handle drilling in reverse. That kind of construction would be enough to write off that drill. In the past I remember Milwaukee using a taper mounted chuck. A taper is bi directional. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

A 3 hp router is HEAVY and clumsy for hand held work and is best used in a table. A slightly undersized router can get by in a table by taking multiple passes if you are using a big bit. It depends on what you want to do, whether you will often even use a bit requiring that much power. The Bosch kit is a great compromise, with plenty of power, known good quality and a fixed base you can install in the table and a plunge base you can use for hand held work. The Triton plunge routers allow for the plunge spring to be removed and table top adjustment, when used as a table router.

There are impact drivers and drills with hex chucks. I have one of each from Bosch. The drill has a multiposition clutch and no impact function, like any drill driver. There are many on the market. They are virtually all 12 volt so the OP is not likely to find an 18 volt.

The best technology doesn't always win. Betamax was a better vcr format than VHS but suffered from a slightly shorter run time so the purveyers of VHS played on that. The commercial tape machines used Betamax. My Plasma is going strong. The blacks were better and LCD pixels could never be as fast to replace data, in spite of all kinds of work arounds. The new OLED TVs use the technology from smart phone screens and have very good blacks. Plasmas were heavy and expensive to make. If they can get similar performance out of a 4 pole motor I suspect you will see less brushless. Cheap and simple beats complex and expensive when performance is similar. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I just looked up the DeWalt factory parts breakdown diagram for that drill and there is a screw shown next to the chuck. I am lead to believe that if there is no screw it is because it is missing. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I hope you were turning those torx bits clockwise for the left hand screw. It is hard to believe it would not come out. When hammering on on a hex key fails, I chuck a hex bit in an impact wrench, AFTER removing the left hand screw. That has bever failed. It should be mentioned thst the left hand screw is only there to prevent the chuck from unscrewing when the drill is used in reverse. A missing screw might never be noticed if the drill is only used in the forward direction. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The Worx grinder is on sale for $152 US on Ali Express. I don't know how reliable they are to deal with. I got a lot of hits from Worx.AU. Maybe they still sell it down under. It might pay to contact Worx and find out what the deal is on that tool. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Go over to Garage Journal. The HF pass/fail thread posts are in the thousands. There is another thread, Worst thing you ever bought at HF. That one is filling up pretty fast, too. The bottom line is some stuff is OK, some is junk and the quality control is terrible. On some items you are OK if you manage to get a good one. Some stuff works with some modification. The tool cabinets are well regarded. I bought the 44" set a while back and have no regrets. The Earthquake impact stuff is usually OK. Their new higher end tools are too close to the name brand stuff to bother. Warranty is basically an exchange. Forget about replacement parts. It is a very mixed bag. Against my better judgement I bought an electric band file (hand belt sander). Amazingly, it still works. r

There is a rt angle Dremel attachment. If you really want a small hand piece on a quality tool, buy a Foredom. It is a motor that usually hangs from a bracket and has a cable that takes several hand pieces, including rt. angle. There are several models and they are expensive, not a toy. They have been around forever. Jewelers use them. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The obvious question is, have you contacted Wright directly? That is the likely place to start.

The new CEO comes from JC Penny and is really shaking the tree. Major changes in upper management. It will be interesting to see what happens. I don't know how much of their focus is on tools. Most of the store is other stuff. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It is volts and amp HOURS. Multiply the amp hours by the volts and you get watt hours. It is that simple. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

For smaller stuff I have had good luck with the Alden Grabit set. I have seen what looks identical under other brand names so I am not sure who actually makes them. It is just the opposite of the slow pitch ones we hate. It is like a conical tap that bites into a shallow dimple you drill. Many have the left hand bit on the opposite end of the tool. I can't believe how tightly it grabs on that very shallow hole. After removing screws it was an effort to get the extractor off the screw. They are hex and can be chucked in any reversable drill. They are also warranteed for life. I sent one back because the drill end was shot and they sent me another one. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Check at a place like West Marine. The salt water guys have real rust and corrosion problems. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk