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Hybrid Workbench Build


tugnut1

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Hey guys.  Sorry I haven't been here for a while, but I've been really busy this summer.  Things are winding down (temporarily) and I have some time to spend in the shop.  

 

I have a mobile workbench/assembly table that I have used for many years.  It is very solid , but my biggest issues are its ugly, I always seem to clutter the work surface while I am working and I have to get clever with clamps to hold items where I want them.

 

I like the idea of a Ron Paulk bench, but I want a more traditional bench that I can use in the shop.  LIGHT BULB!  So I said to myself, why not make a hybrid version of these two tables.

 

c3fcdc2e0733cb9e9384a5de8ef4e017.jpgwoodworking-bench.jpg

 

I have a bunch of Douglas Fir 4X4s laying around, so I figured this would make for a solid bench.  I'm building this in two parts....the bottom/cabinet part and then the Ron Paulk top.  

 

Here is what I have so far.  

 

I started off drum sanding all of the 4x4's so that all of the boards were straight and consistent in thickness. (no picture)  I cut all of the 4x4's to length using the Kreg Track kit to make sure everything is the exact length.  

 

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I marked out where all of the fasteners were to go.  I'm using 5 inch 5/16th Lag bolts to attach all of the 4x4's.  I started by drilling pilot holes all the way through the 4x4's.  

 

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I then used a 5/8" forstner bit and drilled a hole 1 inch deep so the 5" lag bolt will sink far enough into the receiving board to give me a strong joint.

 

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After that, I followed the original pilot hole with a 5/16" drill bit to allow the lag bolts to slide through.

 

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With all of the holes drilled, I cut some Rabbets to accept some 3/4" plywood panels to box in the bottom and give the base a lot more strength.

 

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With all of my holes drilled and rabbets cut, I ran the boards through the drum sander again.  This time with 220 grit paper....just to make them smooth. No need for this step, I just wanted to do it.

 

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Now comes the fun stuff...assembly.  Pretty straight forward here.  Make sure everything lines up and then bolt up.  

 

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I used a combination of pocket holes and regular screws to attach the plywood to the box.  Where I cut rabbets, I used regular screws.  Since I didn't want to cut out the corners, I just used pocket screws to attach the ends without rabbets.  Not the most visually appealing look, but none of them will be visible in the final product.  I left the front open because I am going to install two full length, full extension drawers to hold the items I will use at the table most.

 

I will attach the casters next and then move onto the top and attaching the vice.

 

Thanks for taking a peak at what I have going on right now.

 

 

 

 

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I was able to catch one of the periscope videos you did. I like the idea where your going with on the bench though. Also nice to see you around on the forum again John.


Love being here. I've just been busy with summer stuff.

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Love seeing these things come along I think it's safe to say we're also benefiting from your time in the shop with you showing us your project!!


That's what the forum is about.....sharing ideas, helping out, and helping when you can. I enjoy this type stuff.

Thanks for taking the time to check it out.

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I went to the Home Depot today and bought some 2 inch  5/16" Lag bolts to attach my casters to the bottom of the base.  I think that I should have oriented my casters along the front edge instead of the sides.  It would make the base a little more stable.  I don't think that I will have an issue, but if I ever do, it should be an easy fix.

 

20160907_143721_resized.jpg

 

Now, here is where I need some imput.

 

Option 1:  Should I fill the bottom section in with two full length drawers both being 8" tall in the drawer face (smaller on the inside).

 

Option 2:  Do one full length drawer on the top around 8" tall and leave the rest of the bottom open for tools with cases and some other misc items.  

 

I am a little torn.  I think the double drawers would look nicer, but I have a feeling leaving the bottom open would be more useful.  

 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

1.jpg

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Personally I would do the two drawers, you can always take a drawer out down the road if it doesn't work or build a shelf for you tool cases, or you can build a hinged cover that appears to be a drawer and keep your cases in there... Just food for though but comes down to what will you grab below your worktop more a tool case or a drawer full of something


Jimbo

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Personally I would do the two drawers, you can always take a drawer out down the road if it doesn't work or build a shelf for you tool cases, or you can build a hinged cover that appears to be a drawer and keep your cases in there... Just food for though but comes down to what will you grab below your worktop more a tool case or a drawer full of something


Jimbo

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Great insight Jimbo. You have me leaning to two drawers, which is different from what I was thinking an hour ago. Thanks.

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I've decided to go with two drawers in the front.  Of course, the drawer slides that I had on my old bench are too long.  I ordered two sets of full extention 100 lbs capacity drawer slides today for $13 apiece.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD4AA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 I also ordered the rockler drawer slide jig to make installation full proof.  Since Rockler isn't nearly as fast with their shipping as Amazon, I don't know if I can wait until the jig gets here to install the drawers.  

 

51KVwd0VAtL._SL1000_.jpg71Qi6aOVDmL._SL1000_.jpg

 

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-universal-drawer-slide-jig

 

So, I've decided to make and attach the top to my bench this weekend and if all goes well, attach the end vice as well.

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I've decided to go with two drawers in the front.  Of course, the drawer slides that I had on my old bench are too long.  I ordered two sets of full extention 100 lbs capacity drawer slides today for $13 apiece.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD4AA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 I also ordered the rockler drawer slide jig to make installation full proof.  Since Rockler isn't nearly as fast with their shipping as Amazon, I don't know if I can wait until the jig gets here to install the drawers.  

 

51KVwd0VAtL._SL1000_.jpg71Qi6aOVDmL._SL1000_.jpg

 

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-universal-drawer-slide-jig

 

So, I've decided to make and attach the top to my bench this weekend and if all goes well, attach the end vice as well.



Sweet deal John! Let us know how the jigs work out


Jimbo

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8 hours ago, tugnut1 said:

I've decided to go with two drawers in the front.  Of course, the drawer slides that I had on my old bench are too long.  I ordered two sets of full extention 100 lbs capacity drawer slides today for $13 apiece.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD4AA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 I also ordered the rockler drawer slide jig to make installation full proof.  Since Rockler isn't nearly as fast with their shipping as Amazon, I don't know if I can wait until the jig gets here to install the drawers.  

 

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-universal-drawer-slide-jig

 

So, I've decided to make and attach the top to my bench this weekend and if all goes well, attach the end vice as well.

Oooh nice, may have to look at this for an upcoming build

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I had the opportunity to work on my bench a little more this weekend.  Everything went pretty smoothly.

 

I first glued together and cut two pieces of 3/4" sandiply plywood to make the top and then did it again for the bottom....of the benchtop.

 

20160910_191929_resized_2.jpg

 

Since I want this to look pretty decent, I added some 2" iron on banding to cover up the plywood edges.  This went extremely well and these glue ups no look like a solid wood top.

 

20160911_162421_resized_2.jpg20160911_163431_resized_2.jpg

 

Next I cut the long sides and middle support out of the same plywood.  I am making the sides 6" tall.  I laid out the cutout so that there are two on the long sides and there will also be two on the one end as well.  Cutting out these holes worked best by using a 3-5/8" hole saw for the ends and then cut the straights with a jig saw.  

 

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Next, I rounded the edges of the holes by using my router table.  I pushed the fence all the way in the back and used a bearing bit.

 

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I attached the sides and middle supports using just pocket screws.  I'm trying to avoid glue in case I need to replace the top in the future.

 

20160911_165552_resized_2.jpg20160911_172408_resized_2.jpg

 

I also cut the ends, but I ran out of time, so I just set them in place to see what they look like.  I dropped the top on for a few minutes and it is extremely sturdy.....No flex at all.  I also just realized that when I go to add the end vice, I am going to have to remove about 13 inches of the middle support to allow for the screw and two guides.   Not a big issue at all.

 

20160911_195343_resized_2.jpg

 

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This looks very promising, I wish I had the space, but it's an older small building and I think I would need to make the casters different heights to match the floor profile lol!!!

That edge banding nice, i remember when I was younger and saw my Dad do that for the first time, thought that was so cool!!

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