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Kenneth Denmark

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So your hearing the Dewalt battery will do this? Does that mean they are going to come out with various voltage tools?

That's the rumor except no middle voltage just maybe 6 ah 18/20v or 2 ah 54/60v

Just speculation

Jimbo

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43 minutes ago, Grumpy MSG said:

So how different is the connection for the current 20V and the 40V lines? 

I would assume just the way the sells are wired, hypothetically you could take a 4.0 ah pack 18v and wire it to be a 2.0 ah 36v pack, unless they use a different cell type...

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So in that video all I saw was vacuums, rotohammer, new grinder, miter saw and circular saw, table saw but they were all a strange shade of yellow. Is this to identify them as prototypes or is it because they make up the new battery platform?

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50 minutes ago, JimboS1ice said:

I would assume just the way the sells are wired, hypothetically you could take a 4.0 ah pack 18v and wire it to be a 2.0 ah 36v pack, unless they use a different cell type...

It will only work only if the number of cells are correct, and that goes back to the parallel and series discussion. The old NiCad batteries essentially got their voltage by adding cells. they had 1.2 volts per cell so a 14.4 battery had 2 more cells than a 12 volt battery (it had 10) and the 18 had 15 cells. Li Ion on the other had are 3.6+ per cell, so batteries contain roughly 1/3 the number of cells.Assuming we are talking Li Ion batteries, you would need 10 2.0Ah cells to make it work. 5 4Ah cells will get the 4.0Ah at 18 volts, but would never be able to produce 36 volts.

 

I meant the slide on feature. The old 9.6 up through 18 volt would insert into the same charger. the 12 and 20 volt MAX slide on in a common way. I was wondering if the 40 slid on the same way as the 20 and 12, then that would be a prime candidate for 40V/ 5Ah, 20V/10Ah convertible battery. Not to mention you could use the 40 volt to replace the dead on the vine 24 and 36 volt lines for heavier duty tools. I find it a little hard to believe the only reason they created the 40 volt batteries was strictly for yard work.

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It will only work only if the number of cells are correct, and that goes back to the parallel and series discussion. The old NiCad batteries essentially got their voltage by adding cells. they had 1.2 volts per cell so a 14.4 battery had 2 more cells than a 12 volt battery (it had 10) and the 18 had 15 cells. Li Ion on the other had are 3.6+ per cell, so batteries contain roughly 1/3 the number of cells.Assuming we are talking Li Ion batteries, you would need 10 2.0Ah cells to make it work. 5 4Ah cells will get the 4.0Ah at 18 volts, but would never be able to produce 36 volts.

 

I meant the slide on feature. The old 9.6 up through 18 volt would insert into the same charger. the 12 and 20 volt MAX slide on in a common way. I was wondering if the 40 slid on the same way as the 20 and 12, then that would be a prime candidate for 40V/ 5Ah, 20V/10Ah convertible battery. Not to mention you could use the 40 volt to replace the dead on the vine 24 and 36 volt lines for heavier duty tools. I find it a little hard to believe the only reason they created the 40 volt batteries was strictly for yard work.

Ah makes sense, the 40v has a different slider set up than the 12 and 20

Jimbo

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15 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:

 Latest buzz is an volt switching battery, milwaukee introduced that capability in their 9.0 pack between 18v, 36v or 54v

I think you are misinterpreting the picture with the cells Milwaukee showed. 

 

I'm 99 % sure their 9 amp battery can not physically switch between voltages. 

 

I think those pictures can be misinterpreted quickly :)

 

In the end power always comes down to voltage x amps.

 

If an 18volt output battery can provider enough amps it will be as strong as a 56v battery ( which will pull less amps from the battery for thesame amount of power )

 

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OMG WHYYYYYYYYYYY would they put the blade on the right with a cordless saw? The one thing they could do to be a deal breaker for me, and that's it. 

 

Hopefully their other offerings are good. 

Agreed, I've grown to hate my blade right saws after getting my 6 1/2" fuel saw

Jimbo

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All grown-up 7 1/4" circ saws I've used have had blade on the right, including the new Fuel.???

 

I'm sure hoping for brushless circ saw, as well as brushless recip. Hell, might as well throw in a jigsaw while you're at it!

 

#SwitchingToTeamYellow

Hate to see what you call a worm drive?? Is that an old man saw or just a switch hitter lol

Jimbo

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On 6/9/2016 at 8:59 PM, wildroamer said:

All grown-up 7 1/4" circ saws I've used have had blade on the right, including the new Fuel.???

 

Yea...and why is that? Logically a blade to the left is for a right handed person, and blade to the right for a left handed person for visibility and balance to maintain a straight cut in line with one's body. Literally the most uncomfortable saws I've ever used are ass backwards that way, doesn't make any sense to me. Even watching other people use them makes me cringe at the contortion of the operator. 

 

I'd rather cut lumber with a coping saw by hand. 

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3 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:

 

Yea...and why is that? Logically a blade to the left is for a right handed person, and blade to the right for a left handed person for visibility and balance to maintain a straight cut in line with one's body. Literally the most uncomfortable saws I've ever used are ass backwards that way, doesn't make any sense to me. Even watching other people use them makes me cringe at the contortion of the operator. 

 

I'd rather cut lumber with a coping saw by hand. 

My observation on the left versus right discussion is most that most corded sidewinders have the blade on the right (with some mirror versions available by special order) and most of the hypoid/ worm drives and cordless have left sided blades. I find it convenient that I have a saw available that has a blade on either side. I am no roofer or deck builder by trade, but sure feels safer to be able to cut going uphill with most of the base on the roof or cut going toward the house or on a deck instead of trying to wedge myself next to the saw to start the cut heading away from the house on one side. But that is probably just me.

 

As far as left versus right logic goes, left handed people have been adapting to use right handed stuff for so long, it is just normal for them. If you want to have fun, just hand a pair of left handed scissor to a right handed person and watch them struggle and can't figure out what is wrong. If you want to see ugly watch two left handed people fight, they are both so used to fighting right handed people, they are just as confused as a right hand person fighting a lefty.  

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All of my side winder saws are blade right and I'm right handed. The theory is you get less bevel in your cut. When a right handed person makes a cut he's holding the material down with his left hand and saw in his right obviously, so the bulk weight of the saw is supported by the material that is supported by the user. Thus the saw is less likely to tip. If I cut with a blade left there will only be an inch or so supported. Which allows the saw to tip easier. Yes you can fight it straight with the wrist but I say why fight your tools. And as far as visibility goes there's almost always a good line of sight through the front of the saw. I've been a contractor for long time and don't have a issue with the way I cut. So I guess it's all personal preference, wouldn't be too quick to write off one method or the other because they both have pros and cons.

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